While she’s a familiar face to Twin Cities dining fans, Karyn Tomlinson of Myriel is now working on a larger stage as one of Food & Wine’s Best New Chefs of 2024. The accolade is part of her consistently rising fame, while continuing to run a restaurant that is, in part, stunning for its quiet confidence in a cozy St. Paul neighborhood.
“Restrained and subtle, precise and sophisticated, Karyn Tomlinson’s food is brave in its minimalism,” the magazine proclaims.
“It’s such a testament to my team,” Tomlinson said about the recognition. The chef is flying home tonight and looking forward to visiting the restaurant, which had been closed for a week of vacation. “What we do is such a collective effort.”
Tomlinson is the first chef to bring home the recognition for a St. Paul restaurant. “I love that Myriel is in St. Paul. It fits the neighborhood,” she said. “And it doesn’t put me off to have to earn trust in a community. And the community has been really supportive.”
Her culinary career began in Minneapolis first as a pastry chef at Borough before joining Thomas Boemer’s Corner Table. She worked her way up that line and was the kitchen’s second in command until it closed in summer 2019.
While working at Corner Table in 2018, she brought home her first national award as the first woman to win the Cochon culinary competition. To win, chefs are challenged to use whole-hog butchery to create multicourse tasting menus. Tomlinson shone in the event with Scandinavian heritage cooking and a delicate French technique. Her winning menu included Swedish meatballs and an unabashedly humble yet stunning apple pie with a lard crust. That dish and the lessons she learned by embracing her rural Midwestern roots would inform Myriel.
During the pandemic, Tomlinson gained more notice, taking part in a documentary about women in the kitchen and producing her own online cooking-from-home video series.
In depths of the pandemic, she took possession of the restaurant space that would become Myriel. It’s because of that timing, and the pandemic break, that she was eligible for the Food & Wine’s Best New Chef honor, which stipulates that a chef must not have run a pastry program or kitchen for more than five years.