About a year ago, I heard about an Indiegogo funding campaign to develop an infrared camera that would attach to a smartphone; it was called the Mu Thermal Camera . This project was delayed so many times that I began to think that it might never happen. At the very beginning of this year, Flir announced they were developing essentially the same thing, calling it the Flir One and selling it for under $350; far less than any other infrared camera available today.
My biggest question was whether this camera would be a viable alternative to a traditional infrared camera for home inspectors. As soon as the camera became available for order, I ordered one. It showed up on Wednesday, 8/20.
The Flir One camera attaches to the iPhone 5 and 5s models. It has its own built-in battery, which charges with a standard micro-usb cable. That's nice. Unfortunately, the iPhone can't be charged at the same time, which is quite annoying.
Getting started was easy, even though I've never owned an iPhone. I went to iPhone app store, downloaded and ran the required app, and the software guided me through the rest. Piece of cake.
The Flir One comes with a little black case that the iPhone pops into, which then slides into the camera assembly. It makes the whole package about twice as thick as an iPhone, and a little taller; approximately the height of a Galaxy 4S phone. It's small enough to slip into a pocket, but it's a big lump. That's a lot better than any other IR camera, but the size of my infrared camera has never been a problem for me. When I inspect houses, I bring a big bag of tools into the house with me every time; I have my infrared camera with me whether I plan to use it or not. Making the camera smaller won't change that.
I tried using the Flir One at my last two home inspections, and it felt clumsy. The Flir One is the opposite of ergonomic. You really need two hands to hold the camera and take photos; trying to do it one handed seemed like a sure-fire way to drop the phone and break it. Just like taking photos with a smartphone, you need to touch the screen to capture an image while you're still holding the phone. See below; I have my pointer finger hovering over the "capture" button while I'm holding the phone with my middle finger and thumb.
While the volume button works to capture photos with the iPhone, not so with the Flir One software.
I'm sure that I would drop and break this phone within a month of using it if I started using it for home inspections, and my understanding is that it doesn't take a much of fall to break the screen on an iPhone. Aftermarket phone cases help to protect the iPhone from falls, but that's not an option when the phone is connected to the Flir One.
Every other infrared camera I've owned has had a pistol-grip with a trigger for taking photos, making them perfect for one-handed operation. The image below shows my current infrared camera, the Flir E6.
Even if I drop my E6 camera, it won't break. Before buying this camera, one of the Flir reps tossed the camera up into the air and let it fall onto the concrete floor, just to show how durable and rugged they are. I'm sure the Flir One wouldn't tolerate any kind of abuse like that.
The Flir One app has very few options. There are the standard color palates like "iron" and "rainbow", as well as a bunch of fairly useless ones like "hottest", "coldest", and "arctic". Emmissivity settings can be changed, the save location of images can be changed, the temperature units can be set to Celsius or Fahrenheit. There's also an option to turn on a spot meter, which displays the temperature of whatever is shown in the middle of the screen. That's about it for options.
The infrared camera has a resolution of 80x60. Infrared images are combined with optical images, which gives a much clearer image on the screen than you'd get with just an infrared image. Flir calls this Multi-Spectral Dynamic imaging, or "MSX" technology. I have the same technology on my E6 camera, and I absolutely love it. It seems to highlight the edges of objects, which gives you a much better understanding of what you're looking at with the camera. My Flir E6 has an infrared resolution of 160x120, which is about four times the resolution of the Flir One (19,200 pixels vs 4,700). To show the power of MSX technology, take at look at the two images below.
The image on the right looks a heck of a lot better, doesn't it? The funny thing is that the image on the left is from the much higher resolution E6 camera with the MSX technology turned off, while the image on the right is the far lower resolution image of the Flir One. The MSX technology makes the much lower resolution image of the Flir One look far better.
Side note: this makes me contemplate the difference between real value and perceived value.
When using the Flir One in well-lit environments like the images above, everything looks great. In the dark... not so much. The two images below show the same room with the lights turned off. All of the benefit provided by the MSX technology disappears, leaving you with a few indiscernible orange blobs. Using the Flir One in a poorly lit attic would probably be quite frustrating.
I think this test is the most telling, because it shows you what information the Flir One is really giving you. The perceived value is far higher than the actual value when the lights are on.
To me, the biggest question is whether this camera could be used to do the same stuff that other infrared cameras can do. Sometimes I use my infrared camera as a time-saving device; I'll quickly scan all of the radiators or supply registers in a house to make sure they're all working properly. It does a fine job of that. The images below again show a side-by-side comparison between an E6 and the Flir One.
Sometimes infrared cameras can be used to find wet spots. I poured a little bit of water into a cardboard box and recorded the images, showing how the cold spots compared. The Flir One wasn't great at this, but if you were to really take your time and scan things slowly and up close, you could probably identify the same stuff. It's just not nearly as obvious.
The Flir One also seems to do a fine job of identifying hot spots at electric panels, although this test revealed that the infrared image isn't perfectly blended with the optical image on the Flir One. If you look carefully at the image below, you'll see that the cold tips of the circuit breakers don't match up quite right with the image. That's annoying.
While I don't find that the exact temperature reading is all that important, it was reassuring to see that the spot temperature readings of the E6 and Flir One were basically identical. In the images above, you'll notice that both cameras identified the temperature of the circuit breaker at 114 degrees F.
The temperature range of the Flir One is 32° F to 212° F.
32° F to 212° F. Huh.
That makes this camera pretty much useless in Minnesota attics during the winter, which is one of the most useful places to take an infrared camera during a home inspection.
Another important thing to note is the operating temperature range of this camera: 32° F to 95° F. Ouch. That almost relegates this camera to the class of "cool toy".
All in all, this is a neat device. If you've always wanted an infrared camera but just haven't wanted to fork out over a thousand dollars for it, this is the camera for you, assuming you already own an iPhone 5.
If you're a home inspector and you've been looking to add an infrared camera to your tool bag, don't buy this camera. The resolution is low, it's clumsy to use, you'll surely break it, and the temperature range is unacceptable. Go with a dedicated infrared camera. I've tested many different infrared cameras, and I've been happy with a resolution of at least 120x120. My advice is to go with the E6, which currently retails for about $2,500.
This is a guest blog post by Ryan Carey, of My 3 Quotes.
Let's face it, it's no fun when you realize you need to fork out thousands of dollars for a new roof. If you're like many homeowners, you avoid it as long as you can despite all the tell-tale signs: You have more granules in your gutters than on your roof, you have old organic shingles that are curling up like diplomas on the south side of your house, or worse yet- there are several areas of your ceiling that are turning brown from leaks.
Despite your many attempts at doing hail dances around your house in the hopes that your insurance company may have to foot the bill, you are stuck with having to pay out of pocket since Mother Nature has not cooperated. Once that bitter pill is swallowed, its time to get serious and do some research on the best shingles and contractors out there.
This product comparison is going to be quite different from previous ones. In Window Replacement Part 3: Marvin, Andersen, Pella, I gave many pros and cons of the different window lines since they are all made differently. In Siding Replacement Wars, LP vs. James Hardie, I had a clear favorite between the two different products. However, when it comes to these three roofing product lines I can say the following statement that some of the manufacturers won't like to hear: It matters very little which one of these three you choose; picking the contractor is WAY more important. If installed correctly, all of these products (including some brands I don't mention below) will have nearly identical performance.
3-tab to Architectural
Asphalt roofing didn't have much variation in the past. Shingles were made in the 3-tab style, which is a flat shingle with 3 rectangles per piece. Today, the vast majority of shingles are of the architectural variety. They have a cedar-shake look, with overlay pieces to give the shingle dimension and shadow lines. They are thicker and cover up roof line imperfections better. They also have longer warranties.
With the variation built into the product, architectural shingles are also easier to install. With the symmetrical rectangles of 3-tab shingles, much more attention needs to be paid in placement on the roof before nailing. 3-tab has basically gone extinct for new roofing installs, since there is little to no difference in pricing anymore. With over 90% of new roof installs going architectural, 3-tab has become a special order product and many contractors will do architectural for the same price. Under those conditions, there is no reason to do 3-tab unless you are doing a partial roof or trying to match product on nearby structures.
Unfortunately, the warranties of architectural shingles have recently changed to make things more confusing to the customer. Each one of these brands used to have 30, 40, and 50 year shingles. 30 was the majority of what was used, but the customer could pay more for even thicker 40 or 50 year varieties with more material weight and more distinctive shadow lines. Now, asphalt shingles will never last 50 years but at least you could see the "good, better, best" progression with the old system.
One of the companies got the bright idea to call their 30 yr a "lifetime shingle" to differentiate from the other manufacturers. That differentiation didn't last because the others quickly followed suit. So what changes were made to the old 30 yr to now be called "lifetime?" Absolutely nothing. The shingles may be shot in 20 years, but by that time the pro-rated value is pretty small. Shingle manufacturers also rely on the facts that homeowners stay in a house for 7 years on average, and "lifetime" is how long the homeowner lives there. Severe weather events could cause the roof to get replaced over such a time period. Finally, if the homeowners actually get to 20-30 years, there's a good chance that they won't still have the original paperwork. All these factors keep the lifetime warranty risk pretty low for the manufacturers.
Today, customers need to sift through all the product offerings to find the difference in thickness and weight. 30, 40, and 50 year was previously the guide to tell the difference. With every architectural shingle now having a lifetime warranty, homeowners need to do a little more reading (or get some help from a rep) to find which ones are the premium thickness products.
Speaking of warranties, GAF has most effectively worked their special warranties into the sales pitch. "Certified," "Master Elite," and "Golden Pledge" are a few of their extended warranty terms depending on what level the contractor is at in their system. GAF is the most popular brand in town due to their well-known Timberline shingles. Timberline became the generic term for architectural shingles years back, and people ask for them by name quite often. "Do you have Timberlines?" sometimes means the same as "Do you have architectural shingles?"
They have other lines as well, all the way up to the super-thick "Grand Sequoia." GAF shingles have a great name, a great look, many color selections, and many extended warranty options. GAF has very effectively embedded themselves with local contractors through their certification for different warranty options.
One of the most well-known brand names around, Owens Corning continues to assert its presence in the fields of shingles, pink insulation, and large pink cats. Talk about an awesome branding strategy; I have the "Pink Panther" theme going through my head every time I talk about them.
While I'm not a fan of their entry level "Oakridge" architectural shingle (the overlays seem too thin, they don't look much thicker than a 3-tab shingle to me), I AM a big fan of their "Duration" series. Not only does this shingle look like an architectural is supposed to look, but it has a fabric stretched over the nailing strip which they call "Sure-Nail Technology." The strip helps prevent nail blow-through from installers and shows them the exact place to nail the shingle down, which helps to prevent improper nail placement. O.C. has a variety of colors and thicknesses as well.
If you are a do-it-yourselfer (or if you're using an installer that you don't have 100% confidence in), Duration is the perfect shingle to use, as it is the only shingle that has that Sure-Nail strip for a guide. 4 nails per shingle will give you a 110mph wind warranty; 6 nails will get you up to 130mph. Other brands have similar warranties, but the strip helps to assure the best placement for effectiveness of those levels.
IKO has a slightly different look than the others, as the overlays have a straight cut instead of a tapered cut. While they don't nearly have the brand recognition of the first two, they are a huge company worldwide. They boast more weight in their base-level lifetime product than the others and they have premium thickness products like "Armourshake."
Customers of mine have been going to their "Cambridge IR" (impact resistance) shingle quite often, since it is the least expensive shingle I can find that carries a Class 4 hail rating. Most insurance companies will give you a break on your monthly premiums if you can show them Class 4 impact resistance paperwork.
OK, all pretty darn good products here. However, if they are installed incorrectly, they have an increased potential for failure, which won't be covered under manufacturer warranty. Contractors can use nails that are too short or use nail guns that aren't set at the right pressure, resulting in nails not in far enough that eventually work their head through the overlaying shingle, or nails blowing through the shingle, leading to shingles coming loose. Valleys and flashing can be installed improperly, resulting in leaks. Kick-out flashing can be missed resulting in problems for other areas of your house. See Reuben's post on roofing installation issues.
Ventilation needs to be adequate as well to keep too much heat from building below the roof line and curling the shingles. Can you imagine a ridge vent getting installed and the installers forgetting to cut a channel in the roof decking so the vent could work? It's happened.
This is why it's so important to have a contractor with a good labor (workmanship) warranty, good reputation, and local longevity so you know you're covered if the failure is a result of faulty installation. Many contractors only have 1 year labor warranty and that's it. Now if the roof fails after one year and its because of improper installation, you're up asphalt creek without a paddle on getting any warranty help. Don't even get me started on out-of-state storm chasing contractors.
Many contractors have Lifetime Workmanship Warranties. Now, just like a lifetime shingle warranty, they know that lifetime will be the amount of time the homeowner lives there (average of 7 years), but at least you know you're covered while you're there. Also, if a contractor is sticking their neck out for any water damage that could occur from a leaky roof, you know darn well they will do everything they can to prevent the problems from starting. Water damage can get up to tens of thousands really quick from a bad roof leak.
These three brands are my favorite asphalt shingles to work with, and I haven't had problems with any of the three when they are installed correctly. Pick a solid contractor to do the job, and you'll be happy with any of them. Pick the wrong contractor, and they can all fail. We'll cover metal roofing options in a future post.
Ryan Carey has 15 years of experience in exterior remodeling for Twin Cities Homeowners and Property Management Companies. He is the owner of “My 3 Quotes,” a company that provides the free service of collecting 3 competitive home improvement bids for customers. For more information, visit www.getmy3quotes.com for free home improvement estimates on window replacement, siding, roofing, and more.
In last weeks blog post, I gave advice about homeowner siding inspections, based on the most popular types of siding in the Twin Cities. For this week's post, I'm going to go over what a homeowner can do to inspect the rest of the exterior of their home. This will cover such items as foundation walls, vegetation, windows and doors, and vent terminals.
Before inspecting the rest of the exterior of your home, start by turning on any fans or devices that blow air out of the house. This includes the clothes dryer, any bathroom exhaust fans, the kitchen fan if it exhausts to the exterior, and the HRV if applicable. Now go outside and locate the terminal for each one of these devices, and make sure there's air coming out of every device.
It's common for these devices to terminate at the roof; if that's the case, you'll probably need to get on the roof to make sure everything is working properly. This is important. When fans exhaust into the attic, they can cause major problems in cold climates like Minnesota. Be careful when looking underneath vents; wasps love to make nests at vent terminals, both at the roof and on the ground. If you can't account for every device that's supposed to be removing air from your house, or there's no air coming out of a terminal but there should be air coming out, it's something that should be looked into further. As I've mentioned many times in previous blog posts, the clothes dryer terminal needs to be cleaned regularly. Ideally, clothes dryers should not be vented through the roof.
For more information about inspecting your bath fan exhaust, click here: http://www.structuretech1.com/2014/07/bath-fan-terminal-inspections/
If there's a screen present at the clothes dryer exhaust, remove it. Screens get clogged and should not be installed at dryer terminals. Check any intake grills to make sure they're clean; the most common one is the combustion air intake. Take a second to read through my blog post on combustion air duct problems and solutions to help know what you're supposed to be looking for. If your home has an HRV, the combustion air intake and the HRV intake will probably be located right next to each other, and they look identical.
The way to tell them apart is that the HRV intake usually gets dirty much faster than the combustion air intake... not that it really matters though. You just need to make sure they're both clean, and clean them on a regular basis. If your home has an HRV but you can't find the intake, you have a problem. Maybe it was covered up when the house was resided, or maybe it's located underneath the deck where nobody can ever get at it to clean it. Those are both problems.
If you have old wood windows, check to make sure the paint and glazing putty are in good condition. A good layer of paint will help to protect the windows, and the glazing putty is what holds the glass in place.
To check for rot, you don't need to go around poking at every single window and door. As I mentioned in my blog post about exterior water management and last weeks post about siding inspections, just figure out which areas will rot first. Windows that are covered by big overhangs will probably never rot, while windows that see a lot of water will rot relatively quickly. If you've already had a chance to walk around your house during a heavy rainstorm, this should be very easy to do. Just think about which windows get the most water exposure. For windows located on large gable end walls, like the one shown to the right, check the lowest windows. They'll see the most water. If you have wood windows, take an awl or a screwdriver and give the bottom corners of the windows a poke to check for rotted wood.
If you have wood windows with aluminum cladding, give your window sashes a push and a squeeze. I made a video last year showing how to do this. See below.
The same advice applies to wood doors and aluminum-clad sliding glass doors.
If you have an older home with windows and doors that have been wrapped with aluminum, make sure all of the joints and seams in the aluminum are properly caulked to prevent water intrusion, and re-caulk any areas with dried out or split caulking.
Every homeowner should own a caulking gun and caulk. Go around the outside of your house and look for dried out / split caulking that needs to be serviced. This is a topic that I could blog about for weeks, so I'm not going to go into too much detail here. Just be aware that not everything on the exterior should be caulked; some areas are supposed to be left open to allow water to drain out. I have a couple of examples of places that shouldn't be caulked in some older blog posts: Don't Caulk Here. This might be one of those topics where there are just too many variables to cover every potential situation.
This one is easy. Keep vegetation away from your house. For trees and tree branches, keep stuff trimmed at least six feet away. No trees too close to the house. One foot of clearance for bushes and smaller stuff. No ivy, period.
Oh, and if you have trees growing right out of the shingles on your roof... don't forget to water them.
Small cracks in foundation walls are normal, and usually not worth getting excited about. What's small? For a concrete block wall, cracks that are less than 1/4" wide. For poured concrete, cracks that are less than 1/8". That's certainly not a hard and fast rule, but it's a good general guideline to go by.
The trick is to figure out whether cracks in the walls are caused by active movement or not. To help determine this, cracks can be patched with cement or mortar. If the cracks open up again, there's probably active movement, which is structural concern that should be further inspected by a foundation specialist.
The other concern with cracks in foundation walls is that water can leak right through the cracks; the photo below shows a small crack in the foundation wall of a new-construction home. This crack resulted in water leaking right through the wall and into the basement.
Inspect the soffits and fascia for rotted wood and any holes that could admit pests. Also, check your soffit vents to make sure they're clean; a clogged soffit vent will hamper air flow to the attic space. As mentioned in my previous blog post about roof vents, proper ventilation in the attic may help to extend the life of the roof, reduce the potential for ice dams, and reduce the potential for frost in the attic. The photos below show a couple of different types of soffit vent grills that need cleaning.
Raised edges in sidewalks and driveways create trip hazards. While this is one of those 'no-duh' defects, it's also something to take seriously and have fixed. Falls are the leading cause of unintentional home injury deaths.
Decks are deserving of their very own post. Check out my blog post on how to inspect your own deck. That concludes this four-part series on inspecting the exterior of your own home. Included below are links to the previous posts in this series:
This is part three in a multi-part series of How to Inspect Your Own House. In part one, I covered how to inspect your own roof and chimney. In part two, I covered the inspection of the exterior water management, which is one of the most critical parts of preventing major water damage to a building. Today the focus will be on inspecting your own siding, broken down by the most popular types of siding in the Twin Cities. Oh, and a note to any word sticklers: a more technical / accurate term for siding would be "exterior wall covering", but that term is a little geeky and pretentious. I'm happy to call the stuff that covers the exterior walls "siding", whether it be vinyl, stucco, wood, etc.
The two most common problems you'll find with wood siding and trim are peeling paint and rotted wood.
Peeling paint is an obvious defect that can be spotted from a block away. Paint is meant to protect wood surfaces from decay and rot, but it's not common to find rotted wood siding because of lack of paint. The main issues with peeling paint at siding are that it looks horrible, it's an environmental hazard if the paint contains lead, and it may violate a maintenance code for the city. For example, section 244.500 (d) of the Minneapolis Housing Maintenance Code says "No exterior wall of any dwelling or building accessory thereto shall have paint which is blistered, cracked, flaked, scaled, or chalked away." I don't have any inside tips to share on peeling paint; if you need more info on that topic, check out what Dr. Lstiburek has to say about it.
Rotted wood siding isn't much of an issue at old houses in Minneapolis and Saint Paul that have been sided with old-growth wood; it's more of a 'new wood siding' type of issue. To inspect your own home for rotted wood siding, start by figuring out which areas will be prone to rotting first. If you've already taken the advice that I gave in last weeks blog post about exterior water management, you'll probably have a good idea of which areas you need to pay the most attention to. Areas of the house that are covered by big soffits / overhangs will probably be fine.
The areas that turn into problems are the areas where water gets concentrated.
Other areas to pay special attention to are the siding below roof ends with missing kickout flashing, below bay windows, and at wood chimney chases. Also, any areas that have water splashing against them will be prone to rotting. To check for rotting at wood siding, start by looking for obvious things like holes in the siding. Be sure to look at everything. As shown in the photo below, this might require walking the roof.
The next step is to go around and poke at the areas that will be most susceptible to water intrusion and rotting. You can sometimes just push on the siding with your fingers to find rotted / soft areas.
If you want to look and feel a little bit more official, you could go poking around with a rot detection device (aka "awl").
Look for areas with missing or dried out caulking that need attention. If rotted siding is found in several areas, there's a good chance that there's rotted wall sheathing behind the siding. There are two ways to check for rotted wall sheathing; remove the siding and check it out, or have moisture testing performed on the home by a company that specializes in this. When we conduct moisture testing on wood siding, we start by scanning the siding with a non-invasive moisture meter. Areas with elevated moisture levels are tested the same way that stucco siding is tested; two small 3/16" holes are drilled, and a moisture probe is pushed into the wall to determine the moisture content and condition of the wall sheathing.
First, a quick primer on vinyl siding.
Love Tolerate it or hate it, vinyl siding is very good at what it does. Vinyl siding is an exterior cladding that reduces the amount of rain that reaches the stuff underneath it, which is referred to properly as a water-resistive barrier, but more commonly as Tyvek®, which is a brand name. Vinyl siding is not watertight and isn't designed to be watertight. Vinyl siding should always be installed over a water-resistive barrier, but this wasn't required by code in Minnesota until 2003. If you have a home built before 2003, you may or may not have a water-resistive barrier behind the siding. After 2003, it should definitely be there.
The most common visible problem with vinyl siding is physical damage from hail, basketballs, baseballs, weed trimmers, or rocks thrown from lawnmowers or snowblowers. Small chips and nicks aren't big performance issues; remember, vinyl siding is not watertight. The main issue with physical damage to vinyl siding is that it makes the house look bruised up. The photo below shows an extreme example of a house with some nasty hail damage, as well as some makeshift repairs by someone with a short ladder and a long roll of tape. This siding is clearly in need of replacement.
Vinyl siding can also melt / deform when someone has a grill too close to the siding, or from reflected sunlight on low-e windows. The photo below shows an example of deformed siding caused by reflected sunlight. This is a cosmetic issue; the vinyl will still do its job even though it looks terrible.
Unfortunately, homes with vinyl siding can experience water intrusion just like homes with other types of siding. There is typically no visible evidence of moisture intrusion with vinyl siding... at least not until it's too late. The nice thing about vinyl siding is that it's fairly easy to pull apart and put back together without any tools. The video below shows me pulling apart vinyl siding on a bank-owned property that had experienced major water intrusion. As you can see, it's pretty easy to open vinyl siding up.
If there are areas where moisture intrusion is suspected, pull the siding apart and check it out. There are plenty of videos on YouTube showing how to open up vinyl siding and put it back together.
Old stucco houses typically don't have big problems, while newer stucco homes (late 80's +) often do. There's not much that can be seen to identify major problems with stucco houses. Stains below windows and other similar penetrations in the walls are cause for concern, but they're not necessarily a problem.
As I've said for many years, long before we ever began doing moisture testing on stucco houses ourselves, the only way to know for sure is to have invasive moisture testing performed.
Stone siding is typically installed only on the front of houses, but it's subject to the same problems as stucco, and problems with moisture intrusion are just as difficult to identify. It requires invasive moisture testing. For info on stone siding installation defects, click here: http://www.structuretech1.com/2012/09/stone-siding-installation-defects/
Hardboard siding, often called masonite, is a pressed wood siding product that lasts about 20 - 30 years. When hardboard siding rots, it's usually quite easy to spot, as it really starts to look nasty.
Hardboard siding typically fails at the lowest courses first, usually from water splashing up against siding that has been installed too close to the ground. When it's just a few pieces of hardboard siding that are rotted, the appropriate repair is to replace the rotted pieces of siding. Once there is rotted siding in many areas throughout the exterior, it's time to reside. I have more examples of rotted hardboard siding at the end of this post: http://www.structuretech1.com/2013/04/home-inspection-checklist-exterior/
I'm lumping these two types of siding together because they're nearly indistinguishable to the untrained eye, nearly 100% of 'new construction' home buyers that I work with don't know which type of siding their new home has, and the installations instructions for these two types of siding are very similar.
For the record, they really are quite different products though; check out this post for more info: James Hardie vs. LP Smartside
The most common problems I find with these types of siding are improper nailing and improper clearances to grade, hard surfaces, and roof coverings.
My best advice for inspecting these types of siding would be to read the installation instructions from the manufacturer, then walk around your home and make sure the installation details match up with the diagrams the manufacturer provided. I have installation instructions for James Hardie siding going back to 1998 on one of my older blog posts about that product: http://www.structuretech1.com/2009/08/problems-with-james-hardie-siding-installations/ .
While this is obviously not a full list of siding products used in the Twin Cities, these are definitely the most common. Same goes for the list of problems. Next week I'll have a blog post on inspecting the rest of the exterior of your home.
In last weeks blog post, I gave advice on how homeowners can inspect their own roof and chimney. For this week's post I was planning to cover the rest of the exterior, but I was crazy to think I could do that in a single blog post. I think the exterior will need to be split up into at least three separate posts: water management, siding, and everything else.
Roof water management is HUGE. Experienced home inspectors can drive up to a house and instantly know where there will be water problems, just by paying attention to where water gets directed from the roof when it rains. The best way to inspect the roof water management at the exterior of your home is to walk around your house during the middle of a big rainstorm. You'll notice problems that you never would have noticed otherwise. The video below shows a home with an undersized drain system for the downspouts. The small corrugated drain couldn't handle all of the water coming off the roof, so water was shooting all over the place in very unnatural ways.
This next video shows a new construction home in Chaska that had water shooting off the roof right against the window and the stone veneer siding. This wall will almost certainly experience major water intrusion problems if this isn't corrected very soon.
The simple fix for the water being directed against the window above is to have gutters installed at the house. I can't stress the importance of gutters enough. I've seen hundreds of water problems at decks, windows, doors, and siding that could have been prevented if gutters had been installed. Gutters prevent water problems, and should be installed on almost every home; new or not. I blogged about water management at new construction houses last year: http://www.structuretech1.com/2013/08/new-construction-tip-plan-for-water-management/
If gutters are already installed, pay attention to where water from the downspouts is directed. The downspouts should extend well away from the house, and the water should flow away from the house at the downspout terminals. If downspouts end short of walkways or landscape edging, they're basically draining into a moat around the house, and possibly doing more harm than good when it comes to preventing basement water intrusion. Get that water draining away from the house.
Also, make sure the gutters and downspouts aren't leaking. It's easiest to figure that out in the rain.
Ground water management is all about preventing basement water intrusion, and preventing foundation problems. Water needs to drain away from the building. That's the long and short of it. The best time to inspect this on your own home is during the middle of a rain storm. Look for ponding water next to the house, and look for any water that doesn't drain away.
For more information about ground water management and preventing basement water intrusion, click here: http://www.structuretech1.com/2014/04/wet-basements/
That's all for this week. Next week the topic will be siding inspections.