Burger at Rail Werks Brewing Depot
Sourcing quality ingredients and making them shine is a key philosophy at Rail Werks Brewing Depot. Smoked meats such as brisket, chicken wings and housemade sausage with house rubs and sauces are testaments to that philosophy of enhancing ingredients while not overshadowing the main attraction.
A shining example is the smash burger, which you can order plain or with cheese ($10-$12). Two locally sourced beef patties are seared and simply seasoned with salt and pepper. They’re served on a soft gourmet bun that’s toasted and topped with no-fuss lettuce, tomato, onions and pickles. It’s a quality burger with farm-to-table vibes that’s a classic in the making.
Owner/brewer/pit master William Roberts and his wife, Denise, opened the spot seven months ago in a business plaza that previously housed a charter school and, before that, Marshalls. It’s already hitting a note with crowds for both the menu and as a community gathering spot, with regular events like bingo, trivia, live entertainment and yoga. The Robertses live and raised their kids in the area. “This community means a lot to us, so it made sense that we make this the home of Rail Werks Brewing Depot,” William said. (Nancy Ngo)
4055 Central Av. NE., Columbia Heights, railwerksbrewingdepot.com

24 Carrots at Farina Rossa
Expertly crafted sourdough pizza is just the start of what chef JohnMichael Lynch is doing in his new kitchen at Fair State Brewing in northeast Minneapolis. What was formerly a pizza pop-up is now a brick-and-mortar, where Lynch is roasting vegetables and braising meats and filling out the menu. Soon, he’ll be rolling out pasta and sandwich specials on weekends, too.
Lynch uses mostly Minnesota-grown grain milled at Baker’s Field Flour & Bread for his Neapolitan and Detroit-style crusts. Creatively and generously topped, the pizzas are all about balance, and Lynch considers everything, even the order in which you taste the ingredients. That’s why he created an “upside-down” margherita showcasing the crust first, the hand-pulled mozzarella second, and ends on a saucy note. His birria-topped “Not Another Taco Pizza” on special last weekend (it may join the menu permanently) was a gorgeous medley of flavors, with a rich consommé for dipping that took the leftover crusty edges to another level.
So why am I touting a bowl of carrots ($14)? Because Lynch, a former Travail chef, gives the root vegetable as much attention as he does his signature pizza dough. They are exalted. Lynch roasts wedges of organic carrots in papillote with cumin, coriander and fennel. “The technique accentuates their natural sweetness, creating this carrot ‘gold,‘” Lynch said. Those get nestled with pickled coins and raw shavings and splashed with a ginger-carrot vinaigrette. Cilantro purée and a spiced dukkah of toasted pumpkin and sunflower seeds top it off. They’re the most carrot-y carrots I’ve had, an all-out celebration. (Sharyn Jackson)
2506 Central Av. NE., Mpls., farinarossamn.com