At this point after the holidays, we could all use simple, savory dishes to counter the delightful excesses of cookie platters and blow-out dinners. But that doesn’t mean we need to take an ascetic approach to cooking or a retreat into plain, ho-hum fare.
Restaurant chefs know that just a pinch of this or a splash of that can lift the simplest dish into spectacular territory. The key is in balancing flavors and textures by zhuzhing up bland foods or bridging contrasting tastes with a neutral ingredient.
The mild, complementary components of our favorite comfort foods — pasta and cheese, rice and beans, chicken and rice, potatoes and onions — need a “counterpoint” for definition. Something sharp and acidic (vinegar, lemon juice, wine); or hot and bright (chili peppers, garlic); or umami, that mysterious fifth taste (olives, anchovies, capers, soy, balsamic).
A long, slow cook time — roasting, braising and leisurely poaching — is a simple way to marry contrasting ingredients. This works especially well in recipes that can be prepared ahead of time. Stored for a night or two in the refrigerator, their flavors meld and mellow together. Classic examples are the slowly cooked pulled pork or the long-simmered pot of chili. But long and slow simmering also works nicely with root vegetables — especially carrots, parsnips and beets. When poached in a tasty liquid, they become tender and absorb the flavors of the cooking medium.
Finally, it’s always a good idea to keep a few store-bought condiments at the ready, including chili oil, curry paste, good vinegar and extra-virgin olive oil, canned anchovies, olives and capers. Here are a few tips and techniques to help jazz things up:
- When making a soup or stew, begin by sizzling in a little pancetta, bacon or crumbled sausage with the aromatic onions and garlic before adding the remaining ingredients to bolster flavor and body.
- Add a splash of acid — wine, vinegar, lemon or lime juice — to soups and stews at the last minute. Start slowly, taste, then taste again.
- Swirl a glug of good olive oil or a few pats of butter into a soup or stew as it comes from the stove to enhance its richness.
- Shower shredded Parmesan or crumbled feta over pasta, soups, stews and rice dishes to enhance texture.
- Flavors pale in the refrigerator over time. Season dishes right after reheating, then taste and adjust and taste again.
- Give dishes of fish, chicken and pork an umami kick with a few chopped anchovies, capers or green or black olives.
- Miso, when whisked into butter, adds a mysterious, salty, rich touch. Keep it on hand to lift up vegetables, potatoes, pasta and chicken.
- Good quality frozen vegetables have more flavor and nutrients than their winter-weary fresh counterparts.
- Toast whole spices such as cumin, coriander, cardamom and fennel, then grind for the most intense taste.
- A pinch of red pepper flakes kicks everything up a notch.
These three recipes put some of the tips into practice, but don’t forget the cardinal rule of zhuzhing: Be sure to taste and then taste again.

Sweet & Hot Pepper and Onion Confit
Makes about 3 to 3 ½ cups.
This luscious, sweet-hot condiment perks up a variety of dishes. Stir it into the most ordinary mac and cheese, top off a grilled sausage sandwich, toss it with pasta or rice or steamed potatoes. It will keep in the refrigerator in a covered container for about a week and can be frozen. From Beth Dooley.