Now open: Walker Art Center's Cardamom provides a taste of the Mediterranean

Ultra-prolific restaurateur Daniel del Prado has opened his sixth restaurant since the start of the pandemic (let that staggering number sink in for a moment), several with collaborator and pastry chef extraordinaire Shawn McKenzie. Together, they have taken over the former Esker Grove, bringing a sea-swept culinary tour of the Mediterranean and Aegean to the Walker Art Center. If you didn't already have the travel bug, you will after eating here.

Location: The Walker Art Center's ground floor cafe space and patio, 725 Vineland Place, Mpls., 612-375-7542, cardamommpls.com. Open for lunch and dinner 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Thu. through Sat. and 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Sun.

The vibe: Facing the Minneapolis Sculpture Garden, floor-to-ceiling windows on the green give the place a seamless indoor/outdoor feel oozing with Mediterranean je ne sais quoi. Modern wood-and-cane chairs, aqua tile on the front of the bar and lush potted palms also conjure the Riviera, with the daytime, museum-going crowd enjoying carefree weekday lunches. It's a counter-service restaurant that feels full service: You order via your phone (by way of a QR code), but servers still bring the food to your table. Otherwise, a walk-up pastry and coffee counter has quick snacks to go.

The food: Del Prado and McKenzie and chef Joe Doyle focus on the market-fresh cuisine of North Africa, southern Europe and the Middle East.

The "garden" menu of largely shareable small plates leans heavily on produce, and notable among them is the cauliflower smothered in savory and spicy peanut sauce and served with runny burrata cheese ($15).

A swipe of hummus, sprinkled with paprika and a pool of olive oil floating on top, transported me to Jerusalem snack stands ($11). (Note: only one tearable, chewy pita comes gratis, more are 50 cents each. You'll want more.)

"Plates" or entrees are not much larger than other dishes, but put proteins front and center. Seared tuna in chili sauce served over a flavorful tabbouleh salad ($21) was a highlight, and Lebanese dumplings similar to gnocchi in a Parmesan and black pepper sauce ($21) are among the heartier offerings.

Just two desserts are on the menu, including a rich Turkish coffee pot au crème ($8). But the takeout counter has more of McKenzie's handiwork in the form of muffins, scones, danish and her renowned and deeply chocolately zephyr (brown butter and rye) cookie.

Drinks: The bar is managed by Megan Luedtke, whose cocktails (both with spirits and zero-proof) reflect the garden portion of the food menu, with herbs, flowers, berries and spices such as anise lending their fragrances and flavors. The coffee bar also brings spices of the region into signature lattés. I'll be going back for an iced dukkah latté, laced with sumac, coriander, cumin, thyme and black sesame ($6.25).

Tip or no tip: A 5% health and wellness surcharge is added to every bill, but there's still a way to add more tip when you pay (via your phone).