Sprawling, spring-fed Burntside Lake sits just outside Ely, Minn., one portage away from the Boundary Waters Canoe Area. The lake’s water is so clear and sky-blue that it was once featured in Hamm’s beer advertisements. At night, a full moon shoots a glittery tractor beam across its inky expanse.
Guests of Camp Van Vac, on Burntside’s south shore, have vacationed amid this scenic beauty for more than a century, surrounded by quietude and tall pines, joined by the occasional bear. The place is unlike any of Minnesota’s hundreds of lakeside vacation rentals Minnesotans. Not really a resort or a lodge, “camp” aptly describes Van Vac’s rustic accommodations (the vintage cabins lack bathrooms and are heated by wood stoves) and the camaraderie cultivated among families who have been coming for five generations.
A visitor’s first stop is Van Vac’s stone-and-log office where, for decades, they’ve been greeted by Nancy Jo Tubbs. She’s been a fixture at her family’s resort since she was born right upstairs, in 1947. “Dr. Snyker came from Ely,” she can’t help but add.
Tubbs, a writer and raconteur (she was a longtime columnist for the Ely Timberjay),knows such details matter. And she’s been responsible for every little thing required to rent out 25 antique cabins for 40-plus summers.
That means managing Van Vac’s daily grind (taking reservations, making beds) and long-term preservation (removing downed trees, reroofing cabins). Plus, whatever else pops up during her dawn-to-dusk days, whether that’s directing electricians to replace a burned-out breaker box or lending salt to a guest making an apple pie. Tubbs does these things with the confidence of a wolf-pup handler (she was the longtime board chair of Ely’s International Wolf Center) and the vigor of someone known to express an affirmative as “Yepper!”
Serving as Van Vac’s “chief cook and bottle washer” has made for a wonderful, if taxing, life. And as Tubbs winds down her final season, she’s happy to relinquish her role.
“My knees and hips are ready,” she said.
But it’s no simple thing to make changes in a place where so little has changed for so long. Van Vac is not only among the oldest resorts in Minnesota, but one of the few to have remained so frozen in time. Not to mention one of the rarest few helmed by a solo female proprietor.