Nectarines are just peaches with smooth, non-fuzzy skin, although they are a bit firmer, slightly juicier and more aromatic.

Like peaches, nectarines are marketed as tree-ripened, but that doesn't mean they're truly ready to eat. The ones I've been finding in our co-ops seem to need a little more time to mature. Set them in a basket, out of direct sunlight, and turn them daily until they become yielding and fragrant. You'll know if they're ripe by their lovely perfume and a stem end that's full and plump, usually after about two or three days. If they refuse to soften, toss them on the grill or under the broiler. With a kiss of heat, they'll turn tender and juicy as their sugars caramelize into a lovely crust.

And, like peaches, nectarines come in yellow or white varieties and can be freestone (which means the pit falls easily away from the flesh) or clingstone (where the pits stay stuck). White nectarines tend to taste sweeter because they have less acid than the yellow varieties, but because the yellow are just slightly sour, they can seem more nuanced and complex.

When grilling or roasting nectarines (or peaches or plums) you want to take them to the edge of darkness — a very deep brown, almost black, but not burned and bitter. The technique is simple and quick, but it's important to keep an eye on things. Once nicely singed, they make the perfect foil to hearty late summer greens — peppery arugula, kale and spinach — just add ribbons of prosciutto for heft and a light vinaigrette.

Serve grilled fruit alongside a grilled pork chop, chicken or lamb kebabs. They're also great spooned over ice cream, swirled into yogurt and piled onto pound cake. Need I say, just make a double batch.

Grilled Nectarine, Prosciutto and Arugula Salad

Serves 4 to 6.

Note: You can peel the nectarines or just leave them as they are — either way this comes together in a flash. Double the batch and enjoy for dessert, too. From Beth Dooley.

• 1/4 c. extra-virgin olive oil

• 2 tbsp. balsamic vinegar

• Generous pinch coarse salt

• Generous pinch freshly ground black pepper

• 2 to 3 nectarines, cut into 1/4-in. slices (about 10 to 12 oz.)

• 5 to 6 oz. arugula

• 2 oz. prosciutto, cut into 2-in. strips

• Generous pinch red pepper flakes

Directions

In a small cup, whisk together the oil, vinegar, salt and pepper. Light the grill to medium-high or the broiler to high. Grill or broil the nectarine slices until just singed, turning frequently, about 2 to 4 minutes total.

Place the arugula into a bowl and toss with just enough dressing to lightly coat. Arrange the nectarines on top of the greens, then the prosciutto. Drizzle with more vinaigrette as desired and season with a pinch of red pepper flakes.

Beth Dooley is the author of "The Perennial Kitchen." Find her at bethdooleyskitchen.com.