The 5 best things our food writers ate in the Twin Cities — and beyond — this week

Ube pancake at Kalsada

When the heavy summer heat envelops the city and it feels like we've been blasted by hell's hair dryer, it's officially breakfast ice cream season. A perk of being an adult is that no one can tell you ice cream isn't a breakfast food. Even better is when your grown-up money can buy this showstopper of a pancake.

Serving as a base for both the pancake and ice cream is an ingredient that's having a moment: ube. Coming from the Tagalog word for "tuber," ube is a purple yam that's popular in Filipino cuisine for its mellow, vanilla-y flavor and vibrant purple hue. At St. Paul's Kalsada, it's used to great success in a pillowy pancake topped with sweet fruit that echoes a Halo-Halo topping — ripe mango, green jellies, creamy ripe banana and a scoop of ube ice cream ($13).

If you're a sweet breakfast fan, this dish is for you. But the pro move is to meet friends for brunch and order one as a table-shared dessert (or appetizer — there are no rules here). The sweet fruit and ice cream mellows into a flavorful glaze for the pancake and a bite dipped in the sweetened condensed milk it's served with is a superlative treat — a perfect reward for stepping into sandals and getting out the door before noon on a Saturday. (Joy Summers)

1668 Selby Av., St. Paul, kalsada-stpaul.com

Millionaire's BLT from Pub 42

BLTs are, admittedly, the only sandwich that I won't pull raw tomato off of before taking a bite. For good reason: Most of the year, tomatoes are usually mealy, water-flavored wastes of space in an otherwise good sandwich. But come August, my tune on tomatoes changes. That's because it's BLT season.

Pub 42 makes a BLT for people who don't LOVE tomatoes. That's because this fan favorite, the Millionaire's BLT ($16), is stacked mightily with thick slices of bacon that have been brushed with a luscious sweet-and-spicy glaze that takes the sandwich into deep umami territory. But the tomatoes on the Millionaire's BLT are no afterthought, either. The thin rounds are bright and sturdy enough to actually show up in this fine-tuned balance of a sandwich that simultaneously hits sweet-and-savory, warm-and-cool, crunchy-and-squishy notes perfectly. (Sharyn Jackson)

7600 42nd Av. N., New Hope, pub42.com

Loaded tacos at Bravi's Craft Mexican Kitchen

Those who live south of the river are likely familiar with this standout family-run restaurant. It opened in downtown Shakopee in 2018 with just a handful of tables, and it wasn't long before it had steady lines for both dine-in and takeout. Good news travels fast.

Now they've moved to sprawling new digs in a building they share with Badger Hill Brewing, and there are still steady lines and wait times that can sneak up to 45 minutes to an hour without a reservation. We lucked out with a seat at the bar, which gave us a bird's-eye view of the new space: huge open kitchen, warehouse-high ceilings, splashy murals (with more coming), fresh cocktails and plate after plate of swoon-worthy food heading into the dining room.

After drinks (made with fresh-squeezed juice) and a salsa flight, we switched to taco mode. Our favorite was the loaded tacos ($6 each): Well-seasoned steak, rice and black beans are topped with a simple cabbage slaw and cilantro — it takes two delicious tortillas to contain the robust filling. Drizzling with one of the house-made salsas brings heat, making each bite better than the last.

The menu is small but mighty — and subject to change — as the team settles into its upsized location. The restaurant also shares a window with Badger Hill, making ordering takeout while you're in the brewery a breeze. But do pay a visit to the restaurant — just be sure to make a reservation. (Nicole Hvidsten)

2815 Winners Circle Drive, Shakopee, bravismn.com

Bruschetta at Necce's

I will never be a farmer. Despite all my best efforts and attention, I've yet to harvest a single tomato from the heirloom plants that were gifted to me. But zero success and a lot of misplaced faith has me begging for the juicy fruit of the season across the state.

Lucky for me, we had a recent stay in charming Park Rapids, and this bustling Italian restaurant in the heart of downtown had an abundance of sun-ripened beauties to share. They were served as a salad with burrata and lemony olive oil, turned into pungent red sauce that lurked beneath a lasagna's cheese crust and diced into a juicy bruschetta ($12) that I spooned over focaccia rich with rosemary and olive oil.

Necce's is the work of Denese Jokela, a woman colloquially known by all who've encountered her as "a force of nature." She whipped in and out of the kitchen on a recent Thursday evening, greeting locals and tourists like old friends while simultaneously sending out plate after plate of Italian comforts inspired by her European travels.

Helming the bar and front of house on my visit was her keeper of the good wines, Jackie Griffin. I turned over pairings to her and every sip was a spot-on pour.

Despite the full house — there are outdoor concerts on Thursday nights during the summer — the relaxed atmosphere belied the speed with which customers were being served. Instead of heading back out onto the street to catch the start of the show, I lingered, using a delicate spoon to ladle another scoop of tomatoes, mingled with basil from Jackie's garden, a rich balsamic vinegar over another piece of toast and savored a dish so gorgeous in its simplicity, knowing I'd never taste anything this good from my own backyard. (J.S.)

311 Main Av. S., Park Rapids, Minn., facebook.com/parkrapidslakecountry

Chick a Dew Flatbread at Rustic Roots Winery

The air lightens and expands out here. Driving through winding forest roads, the sky suddenly opens up into lush rolling hills dotted with vineyards and flanked by birch trees. The blue sky seems to reach farther than it did just moments ago. Driving up the hill and taking in the landscapes surrounding Rustic Root Winery in Scandia, it's impossible to deny the deep, lung-filled sigh that rises up and out of a body.

Andrea and Greg Sandager opened the 80-acre winery in 2020, and an extra pavilion was added in 2022. The space is breathtaking in its expanse and the wine program is ambitious. There are several varieties poured and visitors can build their own tasting flights and order from a selection of snacks and light dishes. The kitchen can pack up a picnic basket for exploring the grounds or nearby river valley. We opted for a patio spot to enjoy the views and share a bite. The bready crust of the Chick a Dew pizza ($18) is topped with nubs of chicken, peppadew peppers and gooey cheese with a drizzle of tangy barbecue sauce. It was a perfect midday picnic to pair with a crisp, dry River Day rosé ($9/glass) made just a few feet away. (J.S.)

20168 St. Croix Trail N., Scandia, rusticroots.wine