While taking a holiday break from reviewing restaurants — but certainly not dining out — critic Jon Cheng put down his fork for a moment to respond to a few of the dozens of reader questions received after a recent social media callout.
Questions ranged from his methodology and favorite foods to solo dining and marital status. Cheng picked the most popular and salient questions; here are his answers.
Q: How do you evaluate food from a culture you're unfamiliar with?
A: I was fortunate to have grown up in a place (Singapore) known for its diversity of food options. The city's love for gastronomy certainly is infectious. Having also lived in places like Hong Kong, London and different parts of the U.S., I was exposed to different cuisines, and the host countries' interpretations of them. But I'm no expert. When I wrote the Ethiopian food feature in February 2022, I had only tried Ethiopian food in the Bay Area and Washington, D.C. It took multiple visits to understand how dishes are "supposed" to taste. Having a dining companion well versed in these cuisines does help. However, at the end of the day, there's no better barometer than seasoning, texture, creativity and general execution. It doesn't take an expert to gauge if they'd want seconds of a dish they had just tasted.
Q: What, in your opinion, is needed to embed a new restaurant into our community — aside from good food?
A: Great hospitality. Any great restaurant in the Twin Cities — or elsewhere — will inevitably fall prey to a bad night when the food isn't as consistent. But the hospitality should remain top-notch. It's the sense of comfort, belonging and professionalism that gets diners to return.
Q: Any suggestions where big groups can easily gather for great food and conversation?
A: I recently celebrated my birthday at Mara (245 Hennepin Ave., Minneapolis, 612-895-5709), in the private room. For a special occasion, the environs there — and Thony Yang's cooking — are peerless. I also recommend Gai Noi (1610 Harmon Place, Minneapolis) for Ann Ahmed's reliable, unapologetically authentic Laotian fare served in a stately, breezy environment.
Q: What's your favorite place to go when you have not made a reservation, and it's 6 p.m. on a Saturday?
A: Any terrific restaurant will be, and deserves to be, full during peak weekend hours. So, I make reservations and plan accordingly for those places. But I know one too many diners who shy away from big-ticket, "hard to get in" places, such as Spoon and Stable (211 N. 1st St., Minneapolis, 612-224-9850), because reservations are hard to come by. But there's a sizable bar and lounge area for walk-ins, and dozens of the occasions I've dined at Spoon have been at the bar. Wait times are reasonable. (The North Loop spot is closing from Jan. 27 to Feb. 12 for a refresh.) Some restaurants have done away with reservations altogether, such as Gai Noi and the new Kim's, chef Ann Kim's reboot of Sooki & Mimi (1432 W. 31st St., Minneapolis, 612-540-2554).
Q: Will you dine at a restaurant more than once before reviewing?
A: Yes. In fact, it's my policy to dine at a restaurant at least three times before I file my review. Oftentimes, that number creeps up, depending on how vast the menu is, or if I sense inconsistency among my visits. Porzana (200 N. 1st St., Minneapolis, 612-489-6174) is a recent example — I dined there seven times.
Q: Do you ever shy away from giving a poor review for any reason? Have you ever held onto a review for longer than expected?
A: I try to approach each restaurant fairly, and judging by reader responses, my reviews don't sugarcoat my honest assessments of the restaurants I visit. Except for one restaurant. Their food scored well below my expectations — consistently. But since this restaurant was built under extraordinary circumstances, I felt that reviewing their food would add little value to the dining public.
Q: Favorite guilty pleasure, and why?
A: A large packet of McDonald's French fries. I eat them only when they're hot, golden and crispy. And I always go commando — no ketchup.
Q: How do you feel about working as a restaurant critic in a state that's known for its passive-aggressive culture? Does it influence the way you write?
A: It took some time to get used to Minnesota Nice. In the 2½ years I've lived here, I've met wonderful people and made a trusted friend or two. Yet, of all the places I've lived — including the United Kingdom — the Twin Cities was the hardest to break into, community-wise. I've learned to recognize and decode the veiled malice in things people say. For this reason, I take almost everything with a grain of salt. As far as my reviews are concerned, I continue to speak my mind openly, though I've done so in a style that has evolved to become more subtle.
Q: Do you think harsh restaurant reviews are still relevant during a time when many restaurants are struggling to stay open?
A: The ultimate role of a critic is to analyze, opine and champion. It's hard to make sense of the latter considering the many reviews I've written, which some have coined "harsh." I've covered this extensively in my last Q&A, so I'll simply answer this passive-aggressive question with another question: Do you think there's any worth separating restaurants from the merely good to the truly great — and deserving?
Q: I'm dining solo for the first time in my life. Is there a better, or worse, restaurant for solo diners? Also, any tips for dining solo?
A: I live by a creed of dining solo. In fact, there are many instances when I prefer it. It gives me room to reflect — whether I'm on the job or not — and catch up on reading. At certain places where I've become a more regular diner, I'd bring a food book to read. Generally, bar seats are slightly better for first-time solo diners — and it's better for restaurant economics. That doesn't mean you shouldn't eat at the dining room alone. I've done that on many occasions, and the restaurants that care will create truly memorable experiences for these diners. When I was a younger adult, dining solo at restaurants as a noncritic, a few would surprise me with cookbooks to peruse, kitchen tours and increased interaction with the front-of-house staff. Own it.
Q: Do you think Minneapolis deserves a Michelin guide?
A: Much has already been discussed around the topic. I've weighed in, though not officially. Yes, I do believe the Upper Midwest, inclusive of the Twin Cities, deserves a Michelin Guide. I can think of at least four restaurants here that would easily be recipient of a star. Maybe one restaurant with two. I've received flak in the past for applying lofty standards to the local dining scene; equally, I've heard chefs grumble about the lack of attention we get from guides. I am certain there are restaurants here are that equal the greats in other cities. Having Michelin validate this will only help this city progress its dining scene.
To submit a question for a future Ask the Critic installment, email taste@startribune.com. Jon Cheng is the Star Tribune's restaurant critic. Reach him at jon.cheng@startribune.com or follow him at @intrepid_glutton.
