Report from the 2010 James Beard Awards or how I saved José Andrés' life

My wife and I returned late Friday night from New York where we were attending the James Beard Awards. While the awards ceremony was on the evening of Monday, May 3^rd, we spent a few extra days researching ideas for Heartland's new location. It's good that we did so because the night's festivities proved to be rather exhausting once the exhilaration of that evening was long gone. What follows is a look inside the event sans the $450 general admission ticket price.

Mega and I arrived at Lincoln Center right on time and about half an hour before the opening ceremonies. Standing there in the plaza outside Avery Fisher Hall, I scanned the crowd for fellow chefs that I know and have worked with over the years. The first familiar face I saw was Joyce Goldstein. She and I cooked together one afternoon and evening over twenty years ago at Fetzer Vineyards. I wanted to say hello and reconnect, but she was being mobbed by folks, and I just wasn't going to elbow my way through. It wasn't until fellow nominee Alex Roberts and his wife Margo toting new baby Nia that we connected with some friends. Isaac Becker, another fellow nominee, and his wife Nancy St. Pierre soon joined us. I did get to wish my friend Tony Mantuano of Chicago's Spiaggia good luck with his nomination in the Outstanding Restaurant category. Later that evening we would embrace each other and declare, "Better luck next year," as we both came up short of the winners' circle.

The place was a madhouse of culinary luminaries, food groupies and media folks. It was almost overwhelming. We took our seats and waited anxiously as the various categories, nominees and winners were announced. I was fortunate enough to be seated in an aisle seat just two rows in front of Alex so I was the first person after Margo to congratulate him as he made his way to the stage to accept the Best Chef Midwest Award. I was so happy and proud that he brought one home for Minnesota. It was such a thrill to see him up there at the podium.

Later on, Wayne Kostrowski gave a stirring call to arms to feed the hungry. It was an inspiring moment. I've known Wayne for a long time, and his Humanitarian of the Year Award was one of the highlights of the evening. Like most winners, he got a little choked up as he thanked his spouse for all of her support. It was very touching.

Another highlight, especially for me and Isaac, was Tom Colicchio's acceptance speech for Outstanding Chef. Standing there not far from Ellis Island where both his and my grandparents entered this country without documentation at the turn of the last century, he called upon us to recognize, lest we forget, that we are a nation of immigrants and that our country and especially our industry has been built upon their labor. It was a bold and brave statement that, given these politically charged times, was long overdue; and it was met with resounding applause.

I was disappointed that Michelle Gayer was passed over for Outstanding Pastry Chef. Later on, I was able to touch base with her fellow nominee Mindy Siegel. Mindy went home empty handed as well. Either of those women could easily have won. It just goes to show how difficult it is to handicap those awards.

After four hours of slapping ourselves on our backs and declaring how wonderful we all are, the awards ceremony was finally concluded. It was time for some serious eating, toasting and elbow rubbing. The reception hall was packed to the gills with culinary glitterati. Farmer Lee Jones of Ohio's Chef's Garden was in his signature overalls and red bow tie. He never fails to entertain. It was good to see my old friend Juliet Glass, daughter of composer Philip Glass, who is one the most unpretentious and down to earth people I know. One would never guess she is the progeny of an American icon. She still writes for Food Arts, but lives in Washington, D.C. now; and I miss her frequent visits to Heartland. I got to spend some time with Lee Dean, Rick Nelson and Sue Zelickson as well as with my buddy Andrew Zimmern who brought home his own prize the night before during the media portion of the awards. I was sorry that I didn't get to see Dara Moskowitz Grumdahl, who was also a previous night winner, but I think she high tailed it out of town earlier in the day. I believe this is her fourth award, and it must be getting old hat for her. Timothy Hollingsworth of the French Laundry, who won Rising Star Chef of the Year, looked positively shell-shocked.

Colicchio & Sons was packed elbow to elbow with every celebrity chef you could imagine and their entourages. That party must have cost Tom a fortune, and his generosity did not go unnoticed by us. After snacking on quail, some bone marrow and little neck clams washed done with some bubbly, we thought it best to head out for something more substantial. There we were, the five us, suffering from hunger pangs while in attendance at the premier food event of the year. We were still hoofing it, and Isaac was now our navigator. He was following the advice of Rick Nelson's buddy who informed him of a tiny restaurant supposedly fairly close by that served until 2:00 AM. After what seemed like a half hour of walking (Keep in mind that we were still in evening wear.), we asked Isaac how much further it was. With a straight face, he said he didn't realize it was that far since when he plotted it on his cell phone it looked like it was only an inch away. I don't think Isaac realizes how naturally funny he his.

Ultimately, we arrived around 1:30 only to find that they had already closed. Nonetheless, the cooks came out into the street to glad hand us and to wish Alex congratulations on his victory. Then we took off for Blue Ribbon which we knew served until 4:30, and which Isaac and Nancy will unabashedly tell you was their inspiration for 112 Eatery.