Recipe: Variations on Homemade Lasagna

Makes 3 cups.

Note: This is a good all-purpose white sauce, used in the recipes for Lasagna alla Bolognese and Lasagna al Pesto. The sauce can be refrigerated for up to three days in advance. Reheat it in a saucepan over low heat, adding milk if needed to loosen it to a pouring consistency. From Domenica Marchetti.

• 3 c. whole or low-fat milk (2 percent)

• 4 tbsp. unsalted butter

• 1/4 c. flour

• 1 tsp. fine salt

• Freshly ground white or black pepper

Directions

Bring the milk just to a boil in a medium saucepan over medium heat, then remove from the heat.

Melt the butter in a heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat. Whisk in the flour and cook, stirring vigorously, for 2 minutes. Gradually add the hot milk, whisking constantly to avoid lumps and prevent scorching (the mixture will break apart at first but will eventually turn smooth). Cook the sauce for 10 to 13 minutes, stirring often, until thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Taste and season lightly with the salt and pepper and the nutmeg, then remove from the heat.

Use right away, or cool, transfer to a container and refrigerate for up to 3 days.

Makes 1 pound (enough for 1 large 9- by 13-inch lasagna or 2 smaller pans).

• 2 to 2 1/4 c. all-purpose flour

• 1 tbsp. semolina flour, plus more for dusting

• 1/2 tsp. fine salt

• 3 extra-large eggs, lightly beaten

• 1 to 2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided

Combine 2 cups all-purpose flour, 1 tablespoon semolina flour and the salt in a food processor; pulse to incorporate. Pour in the eggs and 1 tablespoon oil. Pulse just long enough for the mixture to resemble small curds. Pinch together a bit of the mixture; it should form a soft ball. If it seems dry, add the remaining tablespoon oil and pulse briefly to incorporate. If the dough seems sticky, add more flour, 1 tablespoon at a time, and pulse to incorporate.

Sprinkle a little of the remaining all-purpose flour on a clean work surface and turn the dough mixture out onto it. Bring it together to form a rough mass and knead for several minutes, until smooth, incorporating only as much flour as necessary to form a firm, smooth ball. Wrap the dough tightly in plastic wrap and let it rest for 20 to 30 minutes.

Set up a pasta-rolling machine or a mixer with a pasta-roller attachment, with the rollers on the widest setting. Dust the work surface around the machine with semolina and keep more available for sprinkling on the dough as needed.

Cut the dough into 4 equal quarters and rewrap three. Flatten the remaining piece of dough and feed it through the machine. Lay it on the work surface and fold it in thirds, like a business letter. Sprinkle with a little semolina and feed it through the rollers again. Continue to fold and feed the dough through the widest setting two more times. Move the roller setting to the next narrower notch and feed the dough through this setting twice. Continue to pass the dough through the rollers twice on each setting until you have a strip that is about 28 inches long and about 1/16 th-inch thick (setting 6 on a Marcato Atlas hand-cranked machine). You should be able to see the shadow of your hand through the sheet.

Sprinkle a little semolina flour on a baking sheet and lay the pasta sheets there as you work.

Continue as directed in the specific lasagna recipe.

Makes 1 pound (enough for 1 large 9- by 13-inch lasagna or 2 smaller pans).

Note: Emerald-green spinach noodles add an extra layer of luxury to lasagna. They are traditional in Emilia-Romagna's signature lasagna verde alla Bolognese, but can be used in many lasagna variations (or cut into fettuccine). If you have a potato ricer, put the briefly cooked spinach in the ricer and squeeze out excess moisture. This works beautifully and you don't have to wait for the spinach to cool. The pasta dough needs to rest for 20 to 30 minutes. The pasta is best used the day it is made. From Domenica Marchetti.

• 8 oz. fresh spinach leaves

• 1/2 c. water, or more as needed

• 2 to 2 1/4 c. all-purpose flour

• 3/4 tsp. fine salt

• Semolina flour, for dusting

Directions

Combine the spinach and 1/2 cup water in a saucepan over medium-high heat. Bring to a boil, cover and cook for about 5 minutes (stir once or twice during this time) until the spinach is wilted and tender. Drain; once the spinach is cool enough to handle, use your hands to squeeze out as much moisture as possible. Really squeeze (see Note).

Combine 2 cups all-purpose flour and salt in a food processor; pulse to incorporate. Add the puréed spinach-egg mixture and pulse just long enough for the mixture to resemble small curds. Pinch together a bit of the mixture; it should form a soft ball. If it seems dry, add a few droplets of water and pulse briefly. If it seems sticky, add more flour, 1 tablespoon at a time, and pulse to incorporate.

Sprinkle a little of the remaining all-purpose flour on a clean work surface and turn the dough mixture out onto it. Bring it together to form a rough mass and knead for several minutes, until smooth, incorporating only as much flour as necessary to form a firm, smooth ball. Wrap the dough tightly in plastic wrap and let it rest 20 to 30 minutes.

Set up a pasta-rolling machine or a mixer with a pasta roller attachment, with the rollers on the widest setting. Dust the work surface around the machine with semolina and keep more on hand for sprinkling on the dough as needed.

Cut the dough into 4 equal quarters and rewrap 3. Flatten the remaining piece of dough and feed it through the machine. Lay it on the work surface and fold it in thirds, like a business letter. Sprinkle with a little semolina and feed it through the rollers again. Continue to fold and feed the dough through the widest setting two more times. Move the roller setting to the next narrower notch and feed the dough through this setting twice. Continue to pass the dough through the rollers twice on each setting until you have a strip that is about 28 inches long and about 1/16 th-inch thick (setting 6 on a Marcato Atlas hand-cranked machine). You should be able to see the shadow of your hand through the sheet.

Sprinkle a little semolina flour on a baking sheet and lay the pasta sheets there as you work.

Serves 8 to 10.

Note: This is a hearty meat-based lasagna done in the classic "southern" Italian tradition with a tomato-based sauce, and ricotta and oozy mozzarella in the filling. The tiny veal meatballs are optional; there's plenty of meat in the sauce already. But no respectable Abruzzese cook would leave them out. Plan ahead; the meat sauce cooks for 2 to 3 hours. You will have a tender mix of the chuck, pork shoulder and lamb shoulder left over, which can be used for sandwiches. From Domenica Marchetti.

For the meat sauce:

• 8 oz. beef chuck roast

• 8 oz. pork shoulder

• Fine salt

• Freshly ground black pepper

• 2 tbsp. vegetable oil, preferably sunflower

• 2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

• 1 carrot, scrubbed well and finely chopped

• 1 medium yellow onion, finely chopped

• 2 garlic cloves, lightly crushed

• 2 tbsp. finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

• 1/2 c. dry white wine

• 7 c. tomato purée

For the meatballs, optional:

• 12 oz. ground veal

• 1/2 tsp. fine salt

• Pinch freshly grated nutmeg

• 1 egg, lightly beaten

For the lasagna:

• 1 lb. Fresh Egg Pasta for Lasagna (see recipe)

• 1 lb. well-drained fresh whole-milk ricotta cheese

• 1 lb. whole-milk mozzarella cheese, thinly sliced or diced

• 1 1/2 c. freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

• Olive oil

• Salt, for the pasta cooking water

Directions

For the meat sauce: Pat the meats dry and season both sides of each piece with a little salt and pepper. Heat the vegetable oil in a large Dutch oven or other heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat. Once the oil shimmers, add the meat and brown for 3 to 4 minutes, then turn and brown the other side, another 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer to a deep plate or bowl.

Reduce the heat to medium-low; add the extra-virgin olive oil. Stir in the carrot, celery, onion, garlic and parsley. Cook about 5 minutes, until the vegetables begin to soften. Increase the heat to medium-high; pour in the wine and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Return the meat to the pot, along with the tomato purée.

If not using right away, transfer the sauce to a container with a tightfitting lid and refrigerate for up to 3 days, or freeze for up to 6 months. Reheat the sauce over medium-low heat before assembling the lasagna.

For the optional meatballs: Line a tray with wax paper and place it near a mixing bowl. Combine the veal, salt, nutmeg and egg in the bowl; use your clean hands to thoroughly incorporate. Pinch off a small pieces of the mixture and roll them into marble-size balls (smaller, if you are patient), placing them on the tray as you work.

Line a plate with paper towels. Pour enough vegetable oil to a depth of 1/4 inch in a skillet and set over medium-high heat. Have a plate lined with paper towels nearby for draining the fried meatballs. Once the oil shimmers, carefully add the meatballs, working in batches to avoid crowding. Fry, rolling them around in the pan to prevent burning or sticking, until lightly browned. Transfer them to the paper-towel-lined plate to drain and cool. If not using them right away, refrigerate the meatballs in a tightly lidded container for up to 3 days or freeze for up to 3 months.

For the lasagna: Spread a clean tablecloth on a table or clean flat surface near the stove. Have ready the uncooked pasta, meat sauce, meatballs, cheeses and basil.

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Lightly grease a 9- by 13-inch lasagna or baking dish (or 2 smaller baking dishes) with olive oil.

Carefully drop in 4 or 5 lasagna noodles at a time, taking care not to crowd the pot. Boil for about 1 minute; the noodles cook quickly and should be slightly underdone. Use a large skimmer to transfer them to the ice-water bath. Swish them around, then use the skimmer to transfer them to the tablecloth, where you will spread them out flat.

To assemble the lasagna, spread a thin layer of the meat sauce in the bottom of the baking dish. Arrange a single layer of lasagna noodles over the sauce. Dot with one-quarter of the ricotta and one-quarter of the mozzarella. Scatter one-quarter of the meatballs on top and sprinkle with 1/4 cup Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese and a big pinch of the shredded basil leaves.

Make a second layer of sauce and noodles. Again, in separate layers, top with ricotta, mozzarella, meatballs, Parmigiano cheese and basil. Make a third and fourth layer in the same way, then cover with a thin layer of sauce. Make a final layer of noodles and spread more sauce on top, to cover them completely. Sprinkle the remaining Parmigiano cheese on top. Cover with aluminum foil and bake (middle rack) for 20 minutes. Uncover and bake for 20 minutes more, until it is bubbling inside and browned on top. Let rest for 5 minutes before serving.

Serves 8 to 10.

Note: Extravagant and rich, this is the lasagna of your dreams, with a sauce made from ground meat slowly simmered in broth and milk. To simplify the process, make the various components — the Bolognese sauce, the béchamel, and the pasta — in advance. You can even assemble the lasagna and freeze it, then just pop it into the oven when you want to serve it. Refrigerate the ragù in a tightly lidded container for up to 3 days or in the freezer for up to 6 months. Reheat on low, adding water if necessary to loosen the sauce. From Domenica Marchetti.

• 2 tbsp. unsalted butter

• 2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

• 1 large carrot, scrubbed well and finely chopped

• 1 large rib celery, finely chopped

• 1 medium yellow onion, finely chopped

• 1 lb. ground beef

• 1 lb. ground pork

• 1/4 lb. ground veal

• 1 c. dry white wine

• Fine salt

• Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg

• 1 c. whole milk

• 1 (7-oz.) can plain tomato paste

• 2 c. beef broth

• 1/2 c. heavy cream

For the lasagna

• 1 batch Fresh Spinach Pasta for Lasagna (see recipe)

• 1 batch Béchamel Sauce (see recipe)

• 1 1/2 c. (3 oz.) freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

• 1 tbsp. unsalted butter, at room temperature

Directions

For the Bolognese sauce: Heat the butter and oil in a large Dutch oven or other heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat. When the butter is melted and begins to sizzle, stir in the carrot, celery, onion and parsley. Reduce heat to medium-low and cook, stirring often, for 10 minutes, or until the vegetables are soft and golden. Mix in the beef, pork and veal and use a wooden spoon or spatula to break up the large pieces of meat. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring often, until the meat has turned deep brown and is crumbly but still tender. This will take longer than you think, at least an hour to 90 minutes.

When the meat is ready, increase the heat to medium-high and add the wine, stirring for a minute or two until it is absorbed. Return the heat to medium-low and season with about 1 teaspoon salt, pepper to taste, and the nutmeg. Stir in the milk and cook until it has been mostly absorbed, about 3 minutes. In a small bowl, dilute the tomato paste in a little of the beef broth and add it to the pot. Add the remaining broth and mix well. Cover partially, reduce the heat to low, and let simmer slowly for 2 hours or more, until it is very thick and all of the vegetables have more or less melted into the sauce. Stir in the cream and mortadella and cook at a gentle simmer until heated through.

The sauce is ready to use or you can cool and transfer to a container; refrigerate for up to 3 days or freeze for up to 6 months.

For the lasagna: Spread a clean tablecloth on a table or clean flat surface near the stove. Have ready the uncooked pasta, béchamel, Bolognese sauce, and Parmigiano cheese.

Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil and salt generously. Set a large bowl of ice water near the stove for briefly immersing the cooked parboiled lasagna noodles.

Carefully drop in 4 or 5 lasagna noodles, taking care not to crowd the pot. Boil for about 1 minute; the noodles cook quickly and should be slightly underdone. Use a large skimmer to transfer the parboiled noodles to the ice water. Swish them around, then use the skimmer to remove them from the water. Spread them out on the tablecloth. Continue until you have cooked all the noodles.

Spread a thin layer of béchamel in the bottom of the lasagna dish. Arrange a single layer of noodles over the sauce. Spread a second layer of béchamel over the noodles, and top with a layer of Bolognese sauce. Sprinkle about 1/4 cup of the Parmigiano cheese on top. Gently press a second layer of noodles on top, followed by béchamel, Bolognese sauce and Parmigiano. Continue with at least 4 more layers of noodles, béchamel, Bolognese and cheese. You should have at least six layers of noodles in your lasagna.

Cover the dish with aluminum foil. Bake, covered, for 20 minutes. Uncover and bake for 15 to 20 more minutes, or until the lasagna is bubbling and the top is browned and crunchy at the edges. Let sit for 5 minutes before cutting and serving.

Serves 8 to 10.

For the pesto Genovese

• 5 tbsp. pine nuts

• 3 c. packed fresh basil leaves, preferably young and tender

• 2 garlic cloves, cut into a few pieces

• 1/2 tsp. coarse sea salt

• 1/2 c. freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano or pecorino-Romano cheese, or a mix

For the lasagna

• 1 lb. Fresh Spinach Pasta for Lasagna (see recipe)

• 3 c. Béchamel Sauce, warmed (see recipe)

• 12 oz. fresh, whole-milk ricotta cheese, well drained

• 1/2 c. freshly grated pecorino-Romano cheese

• 1 tbsp. unsalted butter, at room temperature, for the pan

• Salt, for the pasta cooking water

Directions

For the pesto Genovese: Place the pine nuts in a small, dry skillet and toast over medium heat for 2 to 3 minutes, shaking the pan often, until nuts are lightly browned. Let cool. Reserve 2 tablespoons to garnish the lasagna.

For the lasagna: Spread a clean tablecloth on a table or clean, flat surface near the stove. Have ready the uncooked pasta, béchamel, pesto and cheeses.

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Lightly grease a 9- by 13-inch lasagna or baking dish (or 2 smaller baking dishes) with the butter.

Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil over high heat and salt generously (as in, 3 or 4 pinches of salt). Set a large bowl of ice water near the stove for briefly immersing the cooked parboiled lasagna noodles.

Carefully drop in 4 or 5 lasagna noodles at a time, taking care not to crowd the pot. Boil for about 1 minute; the noodles cook quickly and should be slightly underdone. Use a large skimmer to transfer them to the ice-water bath. Swish them around, then use the skimmer to transfer them to the tablecloth, where you will spread them out flat. Continue until you have cooked all the noodles. Stir a little of the hot pasta water into the pesto to loosen it to a spreading consistency.

Spread a thin layer of the béchamel in the bottom of the lasagna dish. Arrange a single layer of noodles over the sauce. Spread a second layer of béchamel over the noodles, and top with about one-fifth of the thinned pesto. Dollop one-fifth of the ricotta on top of the pesto and use a spoon to spread it out a bit (it doesn't have to cover the entire surface). Sprinkle about one-sixth of the Parmigiano and/or pecorino on top. Gently press a second layer of noodles on top, followed by more béchamel, pesto, ricotta and grated cheeses. Continue with three more layers of noodles, béchamel, pesto and grated cheeses. Make a final (sixth) layer of noodles and top with the remaining béchamel. Sprinkle the remaining cheeses on top, then scatter the reserved 2 tablespoons pine nuts on top of the lasagna.

Serves 8 to 10.

Note: Lasagna doesn't need to contain meat to be hearty. This one is layered with roasted mushrooms, sautéed Swiss chard and four cheeses. It's a great main dish to serve to company (vegetarians and carnivores alike) on a cold winter night. The roasted mushrooms and sautéed chard can be refrigerated (separately) a day in advance. The tomato sauce can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 3 days, or frozen for up to 6 months. Reheat thoroughly before assembling the lasagna. The assembled, unbaked lasagna can be wrapped (in its baking dish) in plastic wrap and then in aluminum foil, and frozen for up to 1 month. Defrost at room temperature or overnight in the refrigerator. Remember to remove the plastic wrap and re-cover with foil before baking. From Domenica Marchetti.

For the mushrooms:

• 1 1/2 lb. mixed mushrooms, such as cremini, chanterelle, portobello and shiitake

• 4 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

• Freshly ground black pepper

• 1 tbsp. minced fresh flat-leaf parsley

For the chard:

• 2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

• 2 garlic cloves, sliced paper-thin

• 1/2 tsp. fine salt

For the tomato sauce:

• 1 garlic clove, lightly crushed

• 4 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

• 2 (28-oz.) cans diced tomatoes, with their juices

• 5 large fresh basil leaves

For the lasagna:

• 1 lb. Fresh Egg Pasta for Lasagna (see recipe)

• 1 8-oz. ball whole-milk mozzarella, cut into small cubes

• 2 c. well-drained fresh, whole-milk ricotta cheese

• 4 oz. Italian Fontina cheese, shredded

• Extra-virgin olive oil, for the baking dish

• Salt, for the pasta cooking water

Directions

For the mushrooms: Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Toss the mushrooms with the oil in a large bowl, then season lightly with salt and pepper. Spread them out on a large rimmed baking sheet. Roast (middle rack) for 15 minutes, then toss with a spatula. Roast for 10 minutes more or until they are tender and browned. Transfer the mushrooms to the bowl and toss with the minced parsley. Store, covered, in the refrigerator, until you are ready to assemble the lasagna.

For the tomato sauce: Warm the garlic in the olive oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Press down on the garlic with a wooden spoon or spatula to release the garlic flavor. Cook for 2 minutes, until it sizzles, but don't let it brown. Carefully pour in the tomatoes and their juice (the oil will spatter). Season with 1 teaspoon salt and raise the heat to medium-high. Bring the sauce to a simmer, reduce the heat to medium-low, and cook gently, stirring now and again, for 30 to 35 minutes, or until the sauce has thickened and the oil is pooling on the surface.

Remove from the heat and stir in the basil. If not using right away, transfer the sauce to a container with a tightfitting lid and refrigerate for up to 3 days or freeze for up to 6 months. Reheat the sauce to a simmer before assembling the lasagna.

For the lasagna: Spread a clean tablecloth on a table or clean flat surface near the stove. Have ready the uncooked pasta, tomato sauce, chard, mushrooms and cheeses.

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Lightly coat a 9- by 13-inch lasagna or baking dish (or 2 smaller baking dishes) with the olive oil.

Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil over high heat and salt generously (as in, 3 or 4 pinches of salt). Set a large bowl of ice water near the stove for briefly immersing the parboiled lasagna noodles.

To assemble the lasagna, spread a thin layer of tomato sauce in the bottom of the prepared baking dish. Arrange a single layer of lasagna noodles over the sauce. Spread half the chard over the noodles and dot with half the mozzarella and 1/2 cup ricotta. Sprinkle with 1 tablespoon of Parmigiano-Reggiano.

Make a second layer of sauce and noodles. Spread half the roasted mushrooms over the pasta, then dot with 1/2 cup ricotta and sprinkle with half the Fontina and 1 tablespoon Parm.

Make a third layer of sauce and noodles. Spread the remaining greens over the pasta and dot with the remaining mozzarella and 1/2 cup of the ricotta. Sprinkle with 1 tablespoon Parm. Cover with a fourth layer of sauce and noodles. Then spread the remaining mushrooms on top and dot with the rest of the ricotta. Top with the remaining Fontina and 1 tablespoon Parm.