Midwest Traveler: There's Jesse James, of course, but many other Northfield attractions, too

On a breezy and brilliant October day, I traveled south to Northfield, a picturesque town of about 20,100 that straddles the Cannon River. For some the mention of Northfield triggers thoughts of the James-Younger Gang's deadly robbery of the town's First National Bank in 1876. Others just think college town. But historic Northfield offers far more than a gun-slinging past and an academic present to day-trippers or those needing a quick weekend getaway.

Northfield is 45 miles south of the Twin Cities, an easy drive. As in many places, commercial sprawl edges the town.

Northfield was founded in January 1855, when John Wesley North left St. Anthony Falls and headed south to settle on land ceded by a Dakota tribe. Choosing the Cannon River Valley site for its hydrologic potential and abundant resources, North built a sawmill and then a gristmill, dammed the river and built a bridge. The historic river mill, now known as the Ames Mill, is operated by Malt-O-Meal.

Division Street anchors downtown Northfield and is über pedestrian- and cycling-friendly, so park the car and leave it. Historic late-19th- and early 20th-century brick and stone buildings, filled with shops and restaurants, line its four commercial blocks. Midway, grassy Bridge Square features a fountain and a Civil War memorial, and hosts festivals and markets.

Northfield is home to two respected private liberal arts colleges. Both are worth visiting. To the west is St. Olaf College (1-507-786-2222; wp.stolaf.edu), founded by Norwegian immigrants in 1874. With a student body of 3,000, the sylvan campus drapes over a hill called Manitou Heights and is punctuated by impressive stone buildings. It is known for its nationally televised St. Olaf Christmas Festival and its renowned St. Olaf Choir.

In 1866, the Minnesota Conference of Congregational Churches founded Northfield College on the northeast side of town. Its name changed to Carle­ton College in 1871 to honor a generous benefactor, William Carle­ton. With an enrollment of approximately 1,900 students, Carleton (1-507-222-4000; www.carleton.edu) is one of the nation's most prestigious private liberal arts colleges.

At St. Olaf, visit the Flaten Art Museum, host to first-rate exhibitions. (1-507-786-3556; wp.stolaf.edu/flaten).

Originating in the 1950s, the Northfield Arts Guild (1-507-645-8877; northfieldartsguild.org) supports a range of programs from visual arts to theater and dance.

History buffs should visit the Northfield Historical Society & Museum (1-507-645-9268; www.northfieldhistory.org), which occupies the historic First National Bank building site.

Northfield marks the infamous bank robbery with Defeat Jesse James Days, held annually the weekend after Labor Day. If you miss the celebration, try a self-guided tour (1-800-658-2548; northfieldchamber.com).

For the architecture enthusiast, Northfield boasts several historic homes and churches. Of note is the Nutting House, a 20-room 1888 Queen Anne brick structure at the corner of Union and 3rd Streets. Built for Northfield entrepreneur John Nutting, it is now the home of Carleton presidents. (http://tinyurl.com/mjtk5m5).

Division Street is shopping central, with something for everyone, but a few spots distinguish themselves. Studio Elements on Bridge Square, (1-507-786-9393; studioelements.net) sells locally made arts and crafts, gifts, books and stationery. For funky objects, art and jewelry made from salvaged materials, visit Makeshift Accessories (952-270-8284; www.makeshiftaccessories.com). For my money, the Sketchy Artist wins first prize (1-507-645-2811; thesketchyartist.com). The uncluttered, well-designed store features beautiful handmade papers, artist supplies, children's gifts; the items made in Japan are irresistible.

For new and used books visit Monkey See Monkey Read (1-507-645-6700; www.monkeyread.com). With comfortable chairs, it also offers children's and Young Adult sections.

Northfield offers no fine dining or chef-driven eateries, but a few establishments rise to the top of its plentiful offerings. The Tavern of Northfield (1-507-663-0342; tavernofnorthfield.com) serves a wide-ranging menu in a comfortable, clubby atmosphere with a full bar. Breakfasts are noteworthy. A buffet lunch at Chapati Indian restaurant extinguishes all hunger (1-507-645-2462; www.chapati.us). Just west of downtown is the Ole Store Restaurant (1-507-786-9400; olestorerestaurant.com), an upbeat, casual eatery that features locally sourced ingredients and fine meats. Among music venues, the go-to spot is the Contented Cow (1-507-663-1351; www.contentedcow.com). A lively British pub with an outdoor deck, it serves a limited pub menu and a robust list of craft beers.

For coffee and light fare, check out Goodbye Blue Monday Coffeehouse (1-507-663-6188; gbmcoffee.com), with its vintage 1940s decor. Just south of downtown, the airy James Gang Coffeehouse (1-507-663-6060; jamesgangcoffeehouse.com) sports a fireplace. For delectable old-fashioned candy and ice cream, visit Cocoa Bean (1-507-645-5322).

More interesting than the chain lodging at the edge of town is the Archer House River Inn (1-507-645-5661, archerhouse.com). Dating to 1877, the four-story brick building features 36 renovated rooms and numerous shops. For accommodations with kitchens, try Froggy Bottoms River Pub & Suites (1-507-650-0039; www.froggybottoms.com). The Magic Door Bed & Breakfast (1-507-581-0445; magicdoorbb.com) occupies an 1899 Victorian house just two blocks from downtown.

Outdoor activities abound. The Riverwalk provides an accessible, paved jaunt through town along the Cannon River. For cycling, ride the scenic Mill Towns Trail (milltowns­trail.org) 5 miles south to tiny 1-block long Dundas, Minn., and visit the mid-19th-century Archibald Mill ruins. Try Martha's Eats & Treats for breakfast in Dundas (612-227-2681).