They moved from Minnesota to Napa to launch their own winery just as the recession started slamming the industry. They set out to make varietals that are more favored in France than here. They concocted a what's-up-with-that brand name and a rococo label.
So as they take on such a Sisyphian task, it's tempting to place Gabrielle Shaffer, 34, and Adam McClary, 39, into the "oh, you crazy kids" category. But they are so doggone charming and disarming, not to mention resolute, that it's a short path to "hey, this might just work."
That's especially evident after tasting their first wines, a delicious chenin blanc (see Wine of the Week) and a wonderful cabernet franc.
The proprietors of Gamling & McDuck met when Shaffer, then a wholesale rep, called on McClary, wine buyer at Craftsman restaurant in Minneapolis. They moved to Napa in 2008 and started working at wineries and vineyards. Shaffer's first job was with cab franc maestro Gary Wooton (Smith-Wooton), and she took wine classes at Napa Valley Community College and Cal-Davis.
All along, they knew what they wanted to do: craft wines from two stalwart grapes of France's Loire region, and in a more Old World style.
"What we're trying to make is not Napa but Loire," McClary said. "No Kool-Aid or candy flavors. There are so many products that people use to get the 'green' out of cabernet franc. I want that."
A wine that works
Mission accomplished. Their cab franc has beautiful dried-herb notes on the nose and palate, plus plenty of bright red fruit. This year they're making a small lot of rosé from the cab franc, which they source at the same site Wooton uses, Gallagher Vineyard in southeastern Napa.