Dollars & Sense: Make and Bake

Mom, are we ever going to have something not from the crockpot?"

That was the question that sent Kimberlee Simones of Farmington, a working mother of three, to a meal assembler. After her 7-, 11- and 15-year-old kids complained that everything from the crockpot tasted the same, Simones decided to try Sociale in Eagan.

Now she spends about 90 minutes once a month assembling a month's worth of meals that will make about 65 servings for less than $3 per person. "It's a healthier and cheaper choice than drive-through," Simones said. "It costs me $25 to feed the five of us at McDonald's."

How it works

Most customers using meal assemblers sign up at the website for a morning, afternoon or evening session. Some time slots fill up quickly, so several days' notice helps. Frequent customers get to know the drill: Bring a cooler to haul the entrees home, wear comfortable clothes and a hat or cap so you won't need a hairnet. New customers are drilled about frequent hand-washing and general hygiene. The kitchens usually have 12 to 16 stations, each stocked with ingredients that already have been sliced or chopped. Customers measure out the ingredients they'll need and place them in a metal pan or large plastic bag. Some ingredients, such as rice, may be kept in a separate bag. After each entree is assembled, a label with cooking instructions is slapped on top and it's placed in the fridge until all the entrees are made.

Prices at the meal assemblers range from $2 to $3.67 per serving.

Most preparers allow for flexibility. Twelve to 16 entree recipes are offered each month. Some selections change monthly, while favorites remain. A few substitutions may be made but customers cannot concoct their own recipes. Singles can split portions, families with picky eaters can omit and substitute ingredients, and spices not in the recipe can be added. Friends or relatives numbering at least 12 can usually reserve the entire kitchen for no extra fee.

I tried entrees from Dinner Tonight, Let's Dish, Mix It Up and Sociale. A newcomer, Home Appetit, opened a few weeks ago.

Some recipes were excellent, such as Ropa Vieja, a Cuban roast beef and tomatoes recipe from Sociale. Like many recipes, such as beef roulade and chicken capobianco, it was a dish I'd never heard of.

Other options were more familiar. My favorite finger-food choices were pizza margherita and Asian barbecued pork wraps from Let's Dish. I served a huge portion of Southwest rollups from Dinner Tonight to a party of 10 and it was a unanimous success. Mix It Up served up a molten chocolate cake called Tunnel of Love that could just as easily be called Death by Chocolate. On the downside, about one in four of the meals were bland and not always visually appealing. Meats were not as tender as I'd hoped. I didn't ask for a refund or a replacement, but all of the preparers offer a guarantee.

Will I be a repeat customer? Without a doubt. I'm hooked on the price and convenience, and I'm confident that I'll get better at finding the spicier entrees.

Meal assemblers are already evolving. Assemblers now allow customers to skip the assembly process for an additional fee of about $25 per eight entrees. Only a few deliver, but I suspect that will be the next add-on. Maybe one of the companies will pair up with Simon Delivers. Note: Simon Delivers now delivers freshly prepared, fully cooked entrees and side dishes, too.

A look at the five preparers

All five preparers offer 12 to 16 meal stations where the entrees are assembled. They can also host private or general parties in their kitchens. Catering is offered but the food must be picked up at their kitchens. All charge an additional $20 to $35 for assembly if customers want to save time. Single customers may want to combine an order with a friend to reach the minimum. All offer a money-back or replacement guarantee. Most offer online nutrition information for all recipes. . - Preparer: Dinner Tonight www.dinnertonight.biz 16271 Ipava Av., Lakeville, 952-898-3006 Hours: 10 a.m. - 8 p.m. Mon, Wed.-Sat., noon-8 p.m. Tues. - Price $12 to $22 per entree that feeds 4-6. Cost per serving:$2 to $3.65. Six entree minimum. - July offerings 12 entrees including chicken capobianco, spaghetti carbonara, crab sweetrolls and beef stroganoff. Also 7 summer grill items (ribs, wings, kabobs, chops, chicken breasts). 4 side dishes. - Strengths Will deliver to seniors. Current special: Buy 6 entrees, get 1 free. Generous portions. Owner was New York chef. Bargain: Buy day-old frozen meals for no assembly fee if available. Less hectic kitchen. Kids menu with 4 preassembled items. - Weaknesses No nutritional info yet but coming soon. Can't order from website but can send emails from the site. Few vegan entrees. . - Preparer: Home Appetit www.homeappetitdinners.com 2675 W. 78th St., Chanhassen (952-380-3463) Hours: Tue. and Thurs. 10 a.m.-10 p.m., Wed. and Fri. 8 a.m.-10 p.m., Sat. 9 a.m.-3 p.m. - Price Typical package: 8 entrees serving 4-6 each for $135. Cost per serving: $2.48 to $2.80. - July offerings 16 entrees including almond dried cherry stuffed chicken breast, raspberry infused pork chops with wild rice, stuffed steak and creme brulee French toast. 5 side dishes plus organic bread. - Strengths More gourmet entrees. Wine pairing ideas given. Entrees include brunch items. Will take walk-ins but reservations recommended. Private party members get a free pan of brownies. - Weaknesses Employees have cooking experience but not professional culinary training. Few vegan offerings. No deliveries. . - Preparer: Let's Dish www.letsdish.com Eden Prairie (952-941-8401) Maple Grove (763-425-9383) Woodbury (651-730-6600) Hours vary by location - Price Typical package: 8 entrees serving 4-6 each for $125. Cost per serving: $2.29 to $2.60. - July offerings 16 entrees including Asian barbecued pork wraps, prosciutto wrapped chicken stuffed with garlic herb cheese, ravioli lasagna and grilled pesto topped salmon. 10 side dishes. - Strengths Can get 6 free chocolate mini cakes with in-store signup for a future visit. Discounts for private party organizers. Can pick up a limited selection of frozen meals for a slightly higher price, if available. - Weaknesses A few bland entrees. No separate kids menu. Few vegan entrees. Employees have cooking experience but not professional culinary training. . - Preparer: Mix It Up www.mixitupmeals.com Maple Grove (763-420-8331) White Bear Township (651-407-9649) Mall of America (952-814-9649) Hours vary by location - Price Typical package: 8 entrees serving 4-6 each for $120. It's a $65 flat fee plus $5 to $14 per entree. Cost per serving: $2.20 to $2.60. - July offerings 14 entrees including Florentine stuffed pork chops, Fulham Street chicken, BBQ shrimp and gourmet burger. 12 side dishes. - Strengths Can make multiples of any items. Half-price assembly fee $17 for the summer (regularly $35). Discounts for referrals. New customer discount: get $50 off with the purchase of 8 or more entrees July 15 through Aug. 31. - Weaknesses A few bland entrees. Few vegan offerings. Employees have cooking experience but not professional culinary training. No separate kids menu. . - Preparer: Sociale www.socialegourmet.com Eagan (651-994-9000, ext. 1) Minneapolis downtown skyway (pickup only: 651-994-9000 ext. 2) southwest Minneapolis (pickup only: 651-994-9000 ext. 3) Opening end of July Hours vary by location. Closed Sundays. - Price Typical package: 12 entrees serving 4-6 each is $175. Cost per serving: $2.43 per serving for 12 entrees to $3.67 for 9 small entrees serving 2-3 each. - July offerings 14 entrees including Cuban pork roast, Greek chicken, shrimp tortellini and firecracker beef stir fry. 7 side dishes. - Strengths More gourmet entrees. Delivery to Edina and southwest Mpls. for $8. Adjoining gourmet and gifts specialty store in Eagan. Offers both small and large entree sizes. Culinary-trained professional chefs. - Weaknesses No separate kids menu. Few vegan entrees.

Who's a good candidate

Harried parents who don't have time to cook, but want their kids to eat healthfully.

Families wanting a group activity (but no kids under 12).

Anyone looking to help out a sick friend, a family after a death, senior citizens, new parents.

Couples looking for a fun, yet practical date night.

Weekenders wanting food to take to the cabin.

Who's not?

Vegans.

Those on strict diets, such as gluten-free.

Those with little room in their freezers.

Pros

Huge time-saver. Saves hours on preparation, cooking and cleanup.

Cheaper and more healthful than most fast-food restaurants.

Control over ingredients.

Choices to please all ages.

Meals still feel as if made from scratch.

Cons

A few bland recipes that look less than appetizing.

Fewer options for vegans and those with diet restrictions.

A lot of freezer space needed.

Entrees need one to two days thawing time.

John Ewoldt may be contacted at jewoldt@startribune.com, at 612-673-7633 or by sending a fax to 612-673-4359.

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