Roast Pork Loin With Maple-Miso Glaze

Serves 4 or 5.

Note: A pork loin roast is not the same as the smaller, thinner pork tenderloin. Miso is a fermented soybean paste. Find it in the refrigerated section of the market. Plan ahead as the pork loin must be brined for 18 to 24 hours. From "All About Dinner," by Molly Stevens.

• 1 (2-lb.) boneless center-cut pork loin roast (see note)

• 1/4 c. kosher salt or 3 tbsp. fine sea salt

• 2 tbsp. soy sauce

• 3 tbsp. pure maple syrup, divided

• 1 (1/2-in.) piece fresh ginger, unpeeled, thinly sliced

• 2 garlic cloves, smashed and peeled

• 2 tbsp. miso, white or yellow (see note)

• 1 tsp. Dijon mustard

• Chutney


To brine the pork: Put 5 cups cool water in a deep bowl or a sturdy gallon-size zip-top bag. (If you're using a bag, it helps to stand the bag in a bowl or pot that will stabilize it so it doesn't tip over as you fill it.) Add the salt, soy sauce, 2 tablespoons maple syrup, ginger and garlic. Stir or slosh the water around to dissolve the salt. Lower the pork into the brine, cover or seal, and refrigerate for at least 18 hours and up to 24 hours.

To roast the pork: Heat the oven to 325 degrees with a rack near the center. Remove the pork from the brine (discard the brine) and dry thoroughly with paper towels. Set the pork on a small rimmed baking sheet or in a shallow baking dish — something that accommodates the roast without a lot of extra space. Let sit at room temperature while the oven heats.

Whisk together the miso, the remaining 1 tablespoon maple syrup and mustard in a small bowl and paint about half of the mixture over the top and sides of the pork. Roast, brushing again after 45 minutes with the remaining glaze, until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the center registers 130 to 135 degrees, 70 to 95 minutes. The internal temperature of the pork will rise as it browns in the next step, so if you want a faint trace of pink left, go for 130 degrees; if you prefer your pork more well done, take it to 135 to 138 degrees. But don't let it climb above 140 degrees or you will risk ruining the meat.

Turn the broiler onto high and leave the pork on the middle rack, broil until the top browns and sizzles, 2 to 5 minutes; the timing depends on the strength of the broiler. Immediately transfer the roast to a carving board, ideally one with a trough to capture any juices. Let rest for about 10 minutes; you can tent it with foil if the kitchen is cool.

Carve the pork into slices (1/4-inch-thick slices give the best combination of tenderness and meatiness). Carve only as much of the pork as you're serving, as any leftovers keep better left intact. Serve with chutney at the table.