If Mayor R.T. Rybak hasn't proclaimed a Darryl Weivoda Day somewhere on the 2011 calendar, then he needs to get on it. That's because Weivoda, who has spent a lifetime in the hardware business, has recently added restaurateur to his résumé.

He's the driving force behind the Lowry Cafe, which opened earlier this summer around the corner from his North End Hardware and Rental in the blossoming Lowry-Penn commercial district. For many Twin Cities neighborhoods, an all-American classic like the Lowry would be familiar territory, but in restaurant-starved north Minneapolis, its presence borders on civic-miracle status. Cue the parade.

The comfort-minded staples of short-order cooking are all here, and nicely done. The Lowry is the brand of restaurant that takes pride in a well-crafted club sandwich, knows how to fry up thin, golden French fries, and goes to the effort to prepare baking powder biscuits that rise high in the pan before they're smothered in a hearty pork sausage gravy.

Eggs Benedict boast slightly smoky ham, a supple hollandaise and eggs cooked exactly to order. Burgers are big and juicy. The hash browns are tender and lightly golden. If I found myself in the mood for a big-old meatloaf dinner, or thick-cut pork chops brushed with barbecue sauce and a huge helping of creamy mashed potatoes, I'd head to Lowry and Penn.

Prices are more than reasonable, portions are generous and the service, fast and friendly, is ripped from the pages of the "Anything else you need, dear?" book. Weivoda lures price-conscious crowds with a Wednesday evening taco bust (beef or vegetarian, $9.75), a Friday night all-you-can-eat fish fry (beer-battered cod and all the trimmings, $10.95) and a Saturday date night ($32 for two entrees, a bottle of wine and a sweet).

Dessert is uncomplicated: a Betty Crocker-ish brownie, and five fine flavors of Sebastian Joe's ice cream. Sunshine floods the cheery and spotless storefront, an appealing mix of booths, tables and counter seats. Welcome to the neighborhood. You've been missed.