SHRIMP SAUCE

Makes about 1 cup.

Note: Although this is called a sauce, it is much more like a soft paste to spread on a tortilla or serve on top of beans. From "Oaxaca al Gusto," by Diana Kennedy.

• 8 oz. peeled, deveined shrimp

• About 1/2 cup water, divided

• 3 (or to taste) green chiles (jalapeño or soledad), roughly chopped

• 2 garlic cloves, roughly chopped

• 1/4 medium white onion, roughly chopped

• 6 oz. tomatoes, roughly chopped

• 3 to 4 tbsp. vegetable or olive oil

• Salt to taste

Directions

Heat a flat griddle and toast the shrimp until the flesh is opaque. Remove and chop roughly.

Put 1/4 cup water in blender. Add chiles, garlic and onion, and blend well.

Add tomatoes and blend again. Add shrimp with remaining 1/4 cup water and process a few at a time, blending well after each addition to a textured paste, adding a little more water only if necessary to release the blender blades.

Heat oil in a small skillet, add mixture, and fry over low heat, stirring to avoid sticking, adding salt as necessary, until well seasoned, about 8 minutes.

SWISS CHARD AND PASTA SOUP

Serves 6 to 8.

Note: In Oaxaca, a small feather-shaped pasta called pasta de pluma is used. Kennedy recommends orzo (a tiny rice-shaped pasta) as a substitute.

• 3 tbsp. vegetable oil

• 7 oz. orzo pasta

• 1 small white onion, finely chopped

• 2 garlic cloved, peeled and finely chopped

• 12 oz. tomatoes, finely chopped

• 8 c. hot, lightly salted chicken broth, divided

• 4 large chicken livers, cleaned and coarsely chopped

• 4 c. tightly packed, coarsely chopped Swiss chard

• 1 small bunch flat-leaved parsley

• Salt to taste

• Crisp-fried croutons

Directions

Heat oil in a medum-sized skillet and sauté pasta over medium heat, stirring constantly so it browns lightly and evenly, about 5 minutes. Remove pasta from oil and set aside in strainer.

Remove all but 1 tablespoon of oil and fry onion and garlic until translucent. Add tomatoes and cook over medium heat until reduced a little, about 10 minutes.

Put 1 cup of chicken broth in small pan, add chicken livers and cook over low heat until they are just tender but still slightly pink inside, about 10 minutes. Set aside.

Add tomato mixture to rest of broth in soup pot, and when it comes to a boil, add the chard, parsley and pasta, with salt to taste, and cook over medium heat until ingredients are cooked, about 20 minutes. Add livers and cook for about 5 minutes more. Remove parsley and serve soup topped with croutons.