Every cook needs a go-to pound cake for those backyard barbecues, picnics and potlucks, something sturdy enough to tote to the cabin and that doesn't get stale right away.

A true pound cake is quite simple and made of just four everyday ingredients, but the results are magically rich, dense and golden, the perfect lush platform for lots of tangy, sweet summer berries.

For cooks of past generations, the recipe for pound cake was relayed in the name: a pound each of butter, eggs, sugar and flour, beaten together and baked in a loaf pan. Unlike most pastries, a good pound cake tastes better the second day, turning just a tad sweeter as it settles into its flavors. After a couple of days (if there's any left), try it sliced and toasted and slathered with homemade jam.

Do take time to stir the flour in by hand until just combined to ensure a tender, delicate crumb. Be sure to butter and flour the pan generously, and once it's out of the oven, allow the cake to cool for a few minutes before removing it from the pan, otherwise it may stick. Fresh eggs from the market are key to the sunny color and luscious taste and it goes without saying — please use a good local butter.

Today's recipe comes from chef Lucia Watson of the beloved Lucia's Restaurant. Watson created this recipe remembering her grandmother's unwritten formula. She cut the traditional quantity of ingredients in half and added lemon for tang. In the summer, slice it thick and pile on raspberries, blueberries or strawberries from the farmers market. Come winter, try cranberries tossed with a little sugar, or roasted pears. You might also douse it with Madeira or pile on whipped cream. But there is something elegant and timeless about this uncomplicated, deliciously straightforward buttery cake.

Half Pound Cake

Makes 1 (9- by 3-in.) loaf cake.

Note: This cake tastes better a day or two after it's made as the flavors settle into their own. Serve this in thick slices, loaded with fresh summer berries. From Beth Dooley.

• 2 c. flour

• 3/4 tsp. baking powder

• 1/4 tsp. salt

• 1 c. sugar

• 1 c. (2 sticks) butter, softened

• 4 eggs, well beaten

• Grated rind of 1 lemon

• 2 tsp. vanilla

• Berries for garnish

Directions

Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Generously grease and flour a 9- by 3-inch loaf pan.

In a small bowl, sift together the flour, baking powder and salt. In a large bowl, beat the sugar and butter together until the butter looks light and fluffy, then beat in the eggs, grated lemon rind and vanilla. The mixture will look separated. Fold in the dry ingredients, quickly and gently. The batter will be thick.

Pour batter into the prepared pan and bake until a toothpick inserted in the center comes up clean, about 1 hour. Cool about 10 minutes in the pan, then remove and cool completely on a wire rack.

Beth Dooley is the author of "The Perennial Kitchen." Find her at bethdooleyskitchen.com.