It is never a good idea to pause between a 194-degree sauna and the mind-bending frigidity of Lake Superior. As sweat cools on skin, the rational mind kicks in. Why submit the body to such unrelenting shock, it asks. I know this voice well. Yet here I am, on a cobblestone beach in Grand Marais, Minn., with precious heat steaming off my head, pausing to contemplate the wave-sculpted ice growing toward the sky like stalagmites.
By the time the lapping waves hit my calves, my feet are already numb. The air temperature is 30 degrees, a heat wave for February. So, I take the plunge, submerging myself into the 34-degree water long enough to feel the full-body electric tingle before hurrying back to the warm embrace of Sisu + Löyly Nordic Sauna (its Finnish name translates to “Grit + Steam”). With a red exterior and a dramatic perch on a jagged rock ledge above the lake, this 90-minute, $86 private experience makes me feel like I’ve been transported to a spa on the Baltic Sea.
Back in the sauna, I ladle water onto the electric stove, which is a pile of rocks in a wire basket, and wait for the löyly to wash over me, relaxing every muscle. As I take in the darkened sky above a slate-gray winter lake, framed like a painting by the picture window, I realize that if I’m going to make it through this 750-mile-long, sauna-hopping road-trip, I’m going to need to drink more water.

The floating sauna
The culture of sauna — the only commonly used Finnish word in the English language — is exploding in the United States. The U.S. sauna market is projected to grow to $526 million by 2028.
There’s still some question about the health benefits that saunas provide, but one would be hard-pressed to find anyone in the Upper Midwest who does not believe in the life-giving properties of the hot-cold, one-two punch, especially the ever-expanding cadre of saunapreneurs, like Duluth-based Justin Juntunen. With his business partner, Joel Vikre, Juntunen created Cedar + Stone Nordic Saunas. They host tens of thousands of people each year in their own sauna “experience” locations, including one on the rooftop of the Four Seasons Hotel in Minneapolis. They also design and build commercial sauna projects around North America. And they design and build private residential saunas that average $50,000 to $80,000 a pop.
The crown jewel in Cedar + Stone’s growing inventory of community saunas is built atop a 40,000-pound barge that floats in a small slip off the Duluth Harbor adjacent to Pier B Resort.
It looks like an upscale Ikea toy boat, with sleek lines, a rooftop deck with jumping platform, and a back deck where sauna-goers can chill out. Roughly 50 yards down the pier is an enclosed plunge pool with a circulating pump that keeps the water from icing over and two ladders that descend into the frigid harbor water.
Inside the sauna, which comfortably fits 10, are two powerful Iki Finnish stoves with a window to their fiery innards. Their steampunk look matches the industrial surroundings. My partner Brian and I enjoy the 200-degree heat in silence, basking in the glow of the city lights through ample windows and feeling the sway of the barge, propelled by winds gusting up to 20 mph outside.