Roast peppers: Roast peppers on a baking sheet in a 425-degree oven for about 20 minutes, until they begin to deflate and the skin looks loosened. Transfer to a zip-top bag and seal to steam for about 10 minutes, then discard the skins, stems and seeds.

Corn tortilla chips: Fry the quartered fresh corn tortillas in batches in 350-degree canola or vegetable oil just until golden. Drain on a rack over paper towels; if you wish to salt them, do so right away. To bake them instead, spread in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet and spray with cooking oil spray, seasoning lightly with salt, if you'd like; toast in a 375-degree oven till lightly browned and crisped.

Quick-pickle onions: Toss together 1 red or white onion cut into thin half-moon slices, 2 tablespoons of sugar and a generous sprinkling of salt in a medium bowl; let it sit for 5 to 8 minutes, so the onion wilts a bit. Stir in 1/2 cup of red wine vinegar; let it sit for about 15 minutes, so the vinegar infuses the onions and the sugar and salt dissolve.

WASHINGTON POST