Q No canned version, please, or the new streamlined model. I want to make chicken broth like my great-grandmother's. It's trite, but true: The pot was on the back of the stove for the whole day, and that broth needed nothing. On its own you felt so good spooning it up. It could cure anything. Can I make a soup like this?

A It may not be exactly what your great-grandmother did, but this recipe will give you a broth with so much personality it could stand on its own as a meal in a bowl, or take on any kind of addition.

Broths can be made so many ways, and this one takes some unfamiliar tacks. Structured to yield up the deepest, most satiating flavors, it's done with unusual ingredients for a broth -- turkey wings instead of chicken, whole heads of garlic, tomatoes and, especially, long cooking. Here's the reasoning:

• Poultry wings uniquely are neither white nor dark meat and yield up particularly good flavor. Cracking the wings allows even more flavor/nutrients to become part of the broth. This is where using organic poultry is essential, and turkey wings will give you fuller flavor than chicken. They are also less expensive now.

• Garlic mellows in the broth and emboldens its character. You don't taste it, yet you'd know if it were not there.

• Tomatoes are packed with umami, the so-called "fifth taste" that lifts the flavors of ingredients. Umami-rich shiitake and porcini mushrooms, red wine, Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese rind or Asian fish sauce would do the same thing.

• Long cooking with only the occasional bubble breaking the broth's surface draws out every bit of goodness from the ingredients.

Lynne Rossetto Kasper hosts "The Splendid Table," American Public Media's weekly national show. Reach her at www.splendidtable.org.