Scramble those eggs with care

Scrambled eggs are nearly a perfect food — delicious, inexpensive, nutritious, and so easy to cook, a fine alternative to meat.

So why is everyone's favorite breakfast the last choice for lunch or dinner?

It's time to acknowledge the scramble's potential for satisfying meals from sunrise to well after the sun has set. Scrambled eggs are staples throughout the world — and I'm not talking about tricky soufflés or hollandaise, but everyday comforts laced with vibrant fresh herbs and bold spices.

Eggs must be cooked with some care. Hot is OK for frying eggs with a frilly edge, but too high a flame can turn them rubbery.

Scrambled eggs are truly best cooked using low heat, slowly and gently.

To start, melt butter or warm the oil in a shallow pan over a low flame. Whisk the eggs together in a bowl with a little salt and pepper and add to the pan. Cook the eggs, stirring often, until the whites are no longer runny and the yolks are still soft. Then pull them from the stove right away. Creamy, just-set scrambled eggs make a luxurious dish any time of day.

At this point, you can add a spicy salsa and spoon the eggs into a burrito or team with rice and beans and a sprinkle of chopped cilantro. Or stir in chopped tomatoes and bacon, pile onto an English muffin, top with Cheddar cheese and run under the broiler until bubbly. Stir crumbled chèvre and caramelized onions into the scrambled eggs and spread over a baked pizza crust and scatter on arugula.

When it comes to quality, there is no doubt that the freshest eggs are the best. That means eggs from grass-fed, free-range chickens from local farms. These have a bright sunny yolk with a distinctly eggy taste and firm whites.

Given the multitude of farmers markets in our region, a good egg is easy to find. The color of the eggs depends on the breed of the hen and can vary from white, cream, brown, blue and green. There is no evidence that the different colored eggs are healthier than the white, but they're beautiful, especially when displayed on the counter, ready to inspire the next meal.

Beth Dooley is the author of "In Winter's Kitchen." Find her at bethdooleyskitchen.com.

Serves 4.

Note: This makes a lively brunch, satisfying lunch and simple supper. Change the spices and herbs to suit your mood. Serve on toast or warm pita. From Beth Dooley.

• 1 shallot, chopped

• 1 small red jalapeño pepper, seeded and chopped

• 8 eggs, lightly beaten

• 1 tsp. crushed cumin seed

• 1/2 tsp. red pepper flakes

• 3 tbsp. chopped cilantro

• Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Directions

Set a skillet over low heat and add the butter, shallot and pepper and cook, stirring, until the shallot begins to soften, about 3 to 5 minutes.

In a small bowl, whisk together the eggs, cumin and red pepper flakes, and tip into the pan. Stir the eggs and cook, continuing to stir occasionally and gently with a wooden spoon or spatula.

Scatter with the walnuts and cilantro and season with salt and pepper to taste.

Nutrition information per serving:

Calories260

Fat21 g

Sodium130 mg

Saturated fat7 g

Total sugars2 g

Protein14 g

Cholesterol390 mg

Dietary fiber1 g