House-made veal meatballs at Scusi. Photo by Courtney PerryScusi

Sometimes service can make all the difference. Food-wise, Scusi isn't the best Italian restaurant in the Twin Towns, although it's probably not trying to be, either. But it could certainly rack up awards for its sharp and enthusiastic service staff. Along with its aims-to-please crew, this venture of the Blue Plate Restaurant Co. has a lot going for it. The mostly Italian wine program is a keeper and a model for moderately priced restaurants everywhere. Also noteworthy is the long list of wine-friendly small plates, starting with a well-sourced variety of cheeses, cured meats and olives, all sold by single bites or in mix-and-match combos (also noteworthy: the flirtatiously spicy veal meatballs, the crostini topped with succulent duck confit and sweet figs, the thinly sliced eggplant wrapped, cannoli-style, around seasoned chevre). The kitchen puts up memorable salads, including a platter of grilled vegetables or a lovely plate of roasted beets with salty blue cheese. Better to enjoy pizza elsewhere; the crusts are dull and formulaic, and they're clumsily topped. Osso bucco, chicken piccata, steak Florentine and other Italian-American classics receive dutiful if predictable preparations, and for every hearty lasagna (layered with eggplant, spinach, pine nuts and ricotta) and slow-cooked lamb ragout spooned over house-made pappardelle, there's a disappointingly fishy shrimp ravioli. Prices rarely venture above $13. The former Heartland has been given a sparkling makeover; the cozy wine bar has quickly become a go-to destination for a soothing pinot noir and a few bites.

Sausage flatbread from Joan's in the Park. Photo by Tom WallaceJoan's in the Park

Highland Park's new dinner-only restaurant is the work of friends Joanne Schmitt and Susan Dunlop. Schmitt is the friendly face in the front of the house, while Dunlop is handling the cooking. And good cooking, at that. Dunlop starts her evenings with toasts topped with luscious burrata and thin slices of cured ham, or pan-seared crab cakes packed with sweet blue crab, or a pretty toss of field greens, tangy goat cheese, tart apples and a smooth honey Dijon vinaigrette. From there, she moves on to golden flatbreads topped with bacon and caramelized onions, or a flurry of mushrooms against mascarpone. The small but enticing selection of entrees range from pumpkin- and sage-filled ravioli to whole roasted sea bass in a tomato confit to an 8-oz. beef tenderloin dressed in a roasted tomato hollandaise. All traces of the former Grampa Tony's Pizza have been wiped away, replaced by a cozy setting that feels tailor-made for a relaxing dinner over a reasonably priced bottle of wine. If the good folks of Highland haven't said "Welcome to the neighborhood," they should.

Q&A: Susan Dunlop Chef/co-owner, Joan's in the Park

  • Favorite item on the menu: Probably the crab cake, but the cured salmon is a close second. My dad was a commercial fisherman and fished for blue crab in the Texas Gulf. When I was in my early 20s I spent a summer fishing with him. So this cake has a little sentimental value to me as well as tasting great.
  • Favorite music to cook to: I feel very sophisticated when I cook to Andrea Bocelli, but if you promise not to tell anyone, my real passion is classic country -- Johnny Cash, Merle Haggard, George Jones, Tammy Wynette. ...
  • Favorite thing about cooking in Minnesota: I've lived in other parts of the country and the guests are not always as friendly or appreciative as they seem to be here. I also like that Minnesotans like comfort food but can appreciate healthier choices, as well.
  • Favorite kitchen tool: A timer. I've learned the hard way to always set a timer. I've blown up, burned and set fire to too many things.

The Nook. Photo by Bre McGeeThe Nook

A December fire wasn't enough to knock Highland Park's burger haven out of commission. It did close the Nook for five months, but when it reopened in May, owners Ted Casper and Mike Runyon had restored their beloved neighborhood pub, and then some. The old wooden bar has been refinished and reinstalled at the front of the house with the full complement of beer taps hooked up and ready. The kitchen was moved and expanded, leaving its tiny spot at the front for roomier digs in the back. A new elevator now makes it easier for patrons to access the Ran-Ham Bowling Center in the basement, which wasn't damaged in the fire. And anyone who has waited for a table at the Nook will be happy to know that the basement's pool tables have been replaced by dining tables. What hasn't changed is the menu, which still emphasizes big, juicy burgers and fresh-cut fries.

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Highland Grill. Photo by Joel Koyama

  • CECIL'S DELI: New York-style Jewish deli. Serves borscht, potato pancakes and vegetarian dishes.
  • EVEREST ON GRAND: Asian. A mix of Nepalese and Tibetan cuisine, with many vegetarian dishes.
  • HIGHLAND GRILL: American. Eclectic neighborhood restaurant serving everything from Elvis burgers (with bacon, cheese, mayo, lettuce, tomato, onion and garlic) to grilled yellowfin tuna.
  • PAD THAI GRAND CAFE: Thai. Curries, noodles, vegetarian dishes.
  • ST. CLAIR BROILER: American. Classic diner fare, including burgers, grilled sandwiches, comfort food classics and a wide selection of breakfast options, served all day.
  • TASTE OF THAILAND: Thai curries, soups, salads and stir-fries, authentically prepared.
  • TIFFANY'S SPORTS LOUNGE: American. Called simply Tiff's by the regulars, this well-established St. Paul sports bar offers the standard menu of appetizers, a variety of burgers, chicken sandwiches, salads and daily specials.

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Blue Door Pub. Photo by David Joles

  • BLUE DOOR PUB: American. Hip and modern, this gastropub features a range of sometimes outlandishly adventurous spins on the Jucy Lucy stuffed hamburger, as well as other more familiar bar-food favorites. Reliably crowded and loud, the Blue Door rewards those who brave the noise with a good local beer list and a friendly neighborhood atmosphere. --James Norton
  • KHYBER PASS CAFE: Afghan. Afghan cuisine is a bit of a hybrid: It's Middle Eastern meets Indian meet Mediterranean, and Khyber Pass does a good job of reflecting that sweep with its ambitious but manageable menu. Kebabs, kormas and spicy stews abound, and don't miss the mashawa, a nicely spiced bean soup topped with yogurt and mint. --James Norton
  • LUCI ANCORA: Northern Italian cuisine.
  • SHISH: Middle Eastern. The name actually refers to shish kabobs (they serve great Middle Eastern food) and not the hookah tobacco. But when evening rolls around, the eatery's sidewalk cafe is often packed with hookah smokers.
  • TWISTED FORK GRILLE: American. An outgrowth of the Green Mill restaurant chain, Twisted Fork takes its parent company's casual dining up a notch and introduces local and seasonal touches. Daily specials and twists to familiar items lend interest to an otherwise accessible American menu.

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  • RISTORANTE LUCI: Italian. Very popular, noisy neighborhood cafe specializing in regional Italian cuisine. Reservations recommended. Vegetarian plates.

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