In the renowned resort community of Lake Geneva, Wis., summer is the most popular season, but winter also shines bright. In this town — which has drawn tourists for over a century — the lake has always been the main allure. In any season, it is the scenic backdrop for weddings, strolls and sightseeing. But in the cold months, snow enhances the beauty of the lakeside paths, the waterfront and the shops downtown. The city is Lake Geneva, on the shores of Geneva Lake: Their identities remain intertwined.

After the Civil War, the town blossomed into a resort for wealthy Chicago families. Grand mansions and estates grew up along the shore. The rich and famous came to visit, including Mary Todd Lincoln and generals Sherman and Sheridan. The Chicago Fire of 1871 inspired many Chicago families to build elegant summer homes here while their city was rebuilt. The town grew as construction, manufacturing and household jobs mushroomed.

My wife and I enjoyed an early winter getaway to Lake Geneva last year, when the wind blew cold and jackets took over from shorts and sandals. We found the town to be warm and hospitable, with great shopping and dining. We also toured the lake and hiked along its shores. Here's a sample of Lake Geneva's attractions.

The lake

A boat tour of the lake is the best way to view the mansions and hear the stories of the wealthy families and the lake itself. Our guide also told us about the boat that delivers mail to about 40 homes around the lake during summer. Gage Marine, the tour boat operator, offers a variety of daily tours from May through October. It also runs tours in April and November, weather permitting (Lake Geneva Cruise Line; 1-262-248-6206; www.cruiselakegeneva.com).

The Geneva Lake Shore Path is a 21-mile walking path that extends all the way around the lake. You can challenge yourself and circle the lake in a day (8-10 hours), or break it into smaller segments. As the town grew, a special covenant was passed to keep the lakeshore accessible for future generations: 20 feet of lakeshore must always remain open to the public. As long as you stay on the path, you can get back-yard views of the historic lakeshore estates.

Riviera Park is the hub of Lake Geneva's waterfront. With its attractive fountain and handsome structure, the Riviera Lakefront Facility is noted for its ballroom, boutiques, restaurants and event center. We saw several wedding parties there during our visit (1-262-248-3673; www.lake­ genevariviera.com).

Shopping on foot

Lake Geneva's downtown is intimate and easy to walk. Though some businesses adjust hours with the season, everything is open year-round. You'll find art, antiques, home decor, jewelry, clothing, gifts, food and wine. Here are two distinctive examples:

Cornerstone Shop & Gallery combines elegant and traditional home decor with artistic creations not found elsewhere. Specialties include handblown and stained glass, stoneware and seasonal items (1-262-248-6988; www.cornerstoneshoppe.com).

Delaney Street Mercantile, set in a converted 1864 house on beautiful grounds, is noted for a series of vintage postcard prints of famous Chicago landmarks on brass metal screens (1-262-248-8008; www.delaneystreet.com).

Dining for all styles

Lake Geneva has several dining spots set in luxury resorts or longtime independent restaurants that range from casual to romantic. Here's a couple:

Scuttlebutt's Restaurant blends the owners' Midwestern roots and Swedish heritage. Specialties include authentic Swedish pancakes, ribs made with their own barbecue sauce and a popular Friday fish fry, all with views of Geneva Lake (1-262-248-1111; www.scuttlebuttsrestaurant.com).

Sopra, an American Bistro, designs bistro classics with a farm-to-table approach, like succulent pork chops, mussels and pot roast pasta (1-262-249-0800; www.soprabistro.com).

Events for the season

Holiday Open House (Nov. 15-16) entices visitors to sip and taste their way through holiday season offerings with musicians, authors and artists at downtown businesses.

Christmas in the Country at the Grand Geneva Resort and Spa is a weekslong festival of lights, music, theater, cuisine and merriment. It kicks off on Nov. 23 when more than 2 million lights are switched on, followed by a fireworks display (1-800-558-3417; www.grandgeneva.com).

Lake Geneva's annual Winterfest features the U.S. National Snow Sculpting Competition at Riviera Park. The sculptors begin working on Jan. 28. The crowning of the champion, along with the popular People's Choice Award, occur on the weekend of Feb. 7-8. The celebration includes music, magic, activities and helicopter rides. Contact the Lake Geneva Chamber of Commerce (1-800-345-1020; www.usnationals.org or www.lakegenevawi.com).

Jim Umhoefer is a travel and outdoor writer and photographer from Sauk Centre, Minn.