Monday is often the restaurant industry's sleeper night. Except at Bar La Grassa. By the time we were midway through our pastas, just about every seat in the house was taken. Not bad, considering it was the restaurant's inaugural Monday. But not surprising, given this North Loop newcomer's pedigree, a partnership that includes two-time James Beard Award-nominated chef Isaac Becker (112 Eatery) and front-of-house category killer Josh Thoma (La Belle Vie, Solera, Barrio).

From their showy exhibition kitchen, Becker and his crew work from a menu divided into four segments. The first two -- appetizers and bruschettas, $6 to $15 -- are essentially a whirl through small-plates-land. Pastas, which cover both dried and made-fresh-daily territory, are sold in both small-ish ($5 to $10) and main course-sized portions ($10 to $20, with one $32 option). Entrees ($14 to $35) go whole hog, served in meant-to-share sizes.

Those introductory courses include apple shards wrapped in proscuitto, a chicken-foie gras meatloaf, several cured meats and nine inventive ways to top grilled bread: tender scrambled eggs tossed with chunks of lobster, cold shredded pork shoulder and an anchovy-avocado combo. The 17 pasta choices range from delicate crab-filled ravioli and orange-scented gnocchi paired with cauliflower to braised rabbit tossed with orecchiette and wide, tender ribbons brushed with a punchy basil pesto. Entrees go from a whole chicken and a trio of house-made sausages to an Italian-style grilled steak for four ($80). The wine list emphasizes Italian and California labels and features 19 by-the-glass options.

Speaking of the house, the former Babalu has been remade with great 1970s revival looks: Lots of dark browns, roughly textured woods and smoked-glass globe lamps. The most compelling seats just might be the dozen or so that line a counter facing the busy kitchen. That's where I plan to park myself in the not-so-distant future, gleefully eating up and down that pasta list.

RICK NELSON