Embrace anchovies

Q We love anchovies and are hunting down new ways of using them. Any thoughts?

A Let me count the ways. Anchovies marry with any form of acid, from vinegars to lemon and lime, which also mutes their impact. Garlic, onion and flavorful fats such as butter and olive oil all work brilliantly with anchovies.

They are loaded with umami (the so-called fifth taste), an element in certain foods that lifts the flavors of everything it's blended with. This means that blending a little anchovy with a Mediterranean grilling rub -- made up of red wine, olive oil, garlic and lots of basil -- will help all the flavors blossom while the anchovy will fade into the background.

• The family always spreads this on grilled bread and on raw or cooked vegetables.

• Simple boiled red-skin potatoes are fabulous tossed with the mix.

• Grilled eggplant gets a great finish when topped with the anchovy sauce and extra lemon.

• Just about every green vegetable tastes better for meeting up with this sauce, especially broccoli and green beans.

• Double the recipe for an instant pasta sauce, adding a few cut-up tomatoes, pasta water and lots of black pepper. Taste for seasoning, and add more lemon juice if you want.

Q What is proper olive etiquette? I really dig olives, but how do you get the pits out of your mouth without grossing out everyone?

A Unobtrusive is the key here. And trust me, if you are in a group of people who don't know each other very well, the first person to get rid of the pit will offer relief for all the others who've been trying to figure out what to do with the darn thing now that they impulsively grabbed an olive.

As with watermelon seeds, you unobtrusively eject them into your fingers or a napkin and put them on the side of your plate or in the bowl that a clued-in host should provide.

Lynne Rossetto Kasper hosts "The Splendid Table" radio show from American Public Media, and is co-author of "The Splendid Table's How to Eat Supper." To reach her, see www.splendidtable.org.