At any price point, purity of fruit, great mouthfeel and a lovely finish are to be cherished. The J. Lohr Riverstone Arroyo Seco Chardonnay ($12, often less) has provided that for decades. And as my taste has swung away from what one winemaker calls "furniture slathered in butter," the style of this wine has evolved as well, now more restrained but still delicious. It's a dandy "cocktail wine" that also pairs well with most chicken or fish dishes and even milk chocolate.
BILL WARD
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