Italy's Piedmont region boasts the two big B's — Barolo and Barbaresco — but the "little b," barbera, is coming on strong. The 2009 Vinchio-Vaglio Serra I Tre Vescovi Barbera d'Asti ($13) has everything you could want in a red wine: seriously tasty red-berry and cherry fruit, a hearty texture, harmony galore and a lush, long finish. Unlike many Piedmont producers, Vinchio-Vaglio Serra controls all aspects of the growing and production processes. Try it with pizza and other tomato-based dishes or lemon-herb roast chicken.

Available at BrightWines, Zipp's, Sunfish Cellars, Sentyrz Market, Brooklyn Park Liquors and Parkway Liquors.

Bill Ward