With more than 40 lakes, the Alexandria area is a well-known summertime destination. But the central Minnesota city also keeps outdoor enthusiasts happy in winter, without the aggravation of bumper-to-bumper car and boat traffic.

There's cross-country and downhill skiing, snow tubing, snowshoeing, ice skating, snowmobiling and ice fishing. Those who'd rather hunker down indoors can entertain themselves sampling local wines, shopping or exploring the quirky history of the Kensington Runestone.

A center of winter activity

The largest resort catering to winter visitors is Arrowwood Resort and Conference Center on Lake Darling (2100 Arrowwood Lane; 1-866-386-5263; www.arrowwoodresort.com). Guests can rent snowmobiles, cross-country skis, ice skates and even fish houses. Sleds and broomball equipment are available, and sleigh rides are offered on weekends. The resort has been renovating its 200-plus rooms -- make sure to ask for one that's been updated. Indoor amenities include a spa, heated pool, a 14,400-square-foot tennis facility and a 38,000-square-foot water park.

Arrowwood connects to the Douglas Area Trails Association trail (www.douglasarea trails.com), a 370-mile groomed trail system that takes snowmobilers through scenic wooded areas and over open flatlands. Find a free trail map at the area Chamber of Commerce (206 Broadway St.; 1-800-235-9441; www.alexandriamn.org).

A skier's paradise

Cross-country skiing is popular at Lake Carlos State Park, 10 miles north of Alexandria. The 1,200-acre park offers candlelight ski and snowshoe events and other programs throughout the winter (www.dnr.state.mn.us/state_parks/lake_carlos). Some county parks also groom trails for skiing, including the Kensington Runestone Park, about 14 miles west of Alexandria (www.co.douglas.mn.us/kensington_runestone_park.htm). Skiers at this peaceful park can traverse 10 1/2 miles of trails near the site where farmer Olof Ohman unearthed the famed Kensington Runestone in 1898. A remodeled barn operates as a warming house.

A few miles from Runestone Park, amid acres of snow-covered farmland, visitors might be surprised to discover a ski hill. Andes Tower Hills (4505 Andes Road SW.; 1-320-965-2455; www.andestowerhills.com) operates 15 downhill ski runs. Snowboarding, tubing, cross-country skiing and snowshoeing are also popular there.

For outdoor skating, people of all ages are drawn to picturesque Noonan Park (905 Lake St.; 1-320-762-8312) on the city's east side. The warming house opens at 3 p.m. weekdays and 1 p.m. on weekends and school vacation days.

If ice fishing's your thing, you'll want to stop at Christopherson Bait and Tackle (309 3rd Av. E.; 1-320-763-3255) for supplies, or to buy a ticket to the 11th Annual Ice Fishing Challenge, the state's second-largest ice fishing tournament (www.icefishingchallenge.org), set for Feb. 12.

Locally grown tours

Carlos Creek Winery (6993 County Road 34 NW.; 1-320-846-5443; www.carloscreek winery.com) combines outdoor and indoor fun. Cross-country ski or snowshoe on the grounds, then retreat inside to sit by the fireplace and sample award-winning local wines. Free daily tours are scheduled at 1 and 3 p.m. An additional 5 p.m. tour is offered on Saturdays, when the winery has live music from 2 to 6 p.m. and dog sled rides from 1 to 4 p.m. Reservations are required for the dog sled rides, which cost $30 for adults and $20 for ages 2-10.

Two other businesses offering free tours are Tastefully Simple, a national gourmet and specialty food direct-sales retail company based in Alexandria, and Northland Woolens, the state's only hosiery mill. The one-hour tours at Tastefully Simple (1920 Turning Leaf Lane SW.; 1-320-763-0695; www.tastefullysimple .com) include taste-testing. Offered weekdays at 10 a.m., and at 1 p.m. every weekday except Wednesday. Call at least 24 hours in advance.

Just east of Alexandria in the tiny town of Nelson, Northland Woolens (2380 County Road 9 NE.; 1-320-762-0376; www.north landwoolens.com) makes toasty wool/angora socks, merino wool ski hats and other products from recycled and natural materials. Tours are given Monday-Thursday after 1 p.m. and by appointment on weekends.

Pursuing history

If you're interested in historical controversy or Vikings (the non-football kind), be sure to see the Kensington Runestone at the Runestone Museum (206 Broadway St.; 1-320-763-3160; www.runestonemuseum.org). Some believe it's proof that Scandinavian explorers visited Minnesota in the 14th century, while others have dismissed it as a hoax. After viewing the 200-pound stone, cross the street and take a picture of Big Ole, the 28-foot-tall Viking statue, whose shield proclaims that Alexandria is the "Birthplace of America."

Books on local history and a host of other subjects are available at Cherry Street Books (503 Broadway St.; 1-320-763-9400; www.cherrystreetbooks.com), an independent bookstore two blocks from the museum in Alexandria's downtown commercial district. Other downtown shops sell men's and women's clothing, gifts, musical instruments and antiques.

Joy Riggs is an Alexandria native who lives and writes in Northfield, Minn.