It used to be exceedingly difficult to find an excellent Italian white for under $20. Quoth the wine maven, nevermore. The 2013 Poggio Morino Vermentino ($13) is pure and focused on the nose (wisteria!) and palate, with intense citrus and tropical fruit flavors leavened by a lovely softness on the midpalate and finish. Culled from the Tuscan subregion of Maremma, home to many spendy "Super Tuscan" reds, this lively white has the requisite acidity and just enough savory notes to make it super-versatile at the table. Virtually anything from sea or stream, up to and including trout, and zesty spring salads would be delightful pairings.

Available at Haskell's, McDonald's, Thomas and MGM Chaska.