There's a moment for most cooks when we simply want to know more. And then more. Fortunately, there are many new cookbooks ready to give us insight. Here's a taste of some of them.
"The Food Lab: Better Home Cooking through Science," by J. Kenji Lopez-Alt (W.W. Norton & Co., 958 pages, $49.95). J. Kenji Lopez-Alt was born to the scientific method. His grandfather was an organic chemist and his father was a microbiologist. Lopez-Alt followed in their footsteps, graduating from Massachusetts Institute of Technology, where he discovered he didn't like the slow pace of the biology lab. Instead, he uncovered a passion for cooking that led to eight years of restaurant work, followed by a role as a test cook and editor at Cook's Illustrated magazine.
From there he became chief creative officer at Serious Eats website (seriouseats.com), where he was known for his "The Food Lab" column, in which he applied the scientific method to all sorts of culinary questions: What's the difference between meatloaf and a burger? What makes chicken skin crisp and golden? If you have a convection oven setting, should you use it?
The result is a wowzer of a book, filled with recipes and 1,000 photos, and answers to questions you never knew you needed to ask. This book is not only for serious culinary geeks but also for those whose curiosity pulls them in unexpected directions. Although recipes illustrate his explanations (in the chapter "Chickens, Turkeys, Prime Rib, and the Science of Roasts," there are more than 40), this feels less like a cookbook than it does a remarkable reference on the science of cooking.
"Cooking for Geeks: Real Science, Great Cooks, and Good Food," second edition, by Jeff Potter (O'Reilly, 471 pages, $39.99). Whether it's an explanation of steel-cut oats or a way to calibrate your oven, a discussion of steam and its effect on popovers or the science behind crispy, chewy cookies, Jeff Potter informs us clearly and offers experiments to prove his points. The book includes interviews, via Q & As, with 23 authorities in the food world who add their insights to the discussion, from Jacques Pépin to Deborah Madison, Jim Lahey and Harold McGee. Porter includes 100 recipes, plus diagrams and black-and-white line drawings in this fun volume, which reflects the look of a high-school science textbook.
"The Laws of Cooking … and How to Break Them," by Justin Warner (Flatiron Books, 332 pages, $35). Who knew there are 11 laws of cooking (also known as flavor combos that work)? At least that's the number that Justin Warner has developed in his first book, and it sounds not only reasonable, but intriguing. Each is named after a classic dish that the particular law represents.
There's the Law of Peanut Butter and Jelly (fat meets fruit), the Law of Coffee, Cream and Sugar (bitter meets fat and sweet), the Law of Gin and Tonic (aromatic meets aromatic) and, well, you'll have to read the book to find out the rest.
Each chapter reflects one of these laws, with recipes that demonstrate the concept and with ways to pump up your cooking skills. It's a lively, entertaining book with an original premise that will attract anyone interested in "why."