Sweet and sour cauliflower a festival of flavors

There are so many different ways to cook vegetables in the brassica family — cauliflower, broccoli, Romanesco, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, kohlrabi, bok choy, savoy cabbage. Whether you steam, bake, roast or sauté these hearty veggies, they all will stand up to a range of bold, contrasting flavors, especially the Italianate combinations of sweet, sour and salty.

Tossing cooked brassicas with raisins, vinegar, a little honey or sugar, onions and spices adds interest and elegance, lifting them to dinner party status.

All brassicas, especially cauliflower, broccoli and Romanesco, are best roasted, either in the pan on the stovetop or in the oven using high heat. This transforms them from their pale selves into something tender, crisp, golden brown and slightly sweet. Freshness is the key to success, and right now, cauliflower is at its peak in our farmers markets and co-ops. You may find “cheddar” cauliflower, so named for its color, as well as purple and neon green specimens and Romanesco, cauliflower’s darker green cousin. All the varieties actually taste nearly the same as the white and can be used interchangeably.

Most recipes call for the core and leaves to be removed and discarded, but they’re not only edible, they’re delicious. The core has a meatier, firmer texture than the florets, but its flavor is the same and should be included in all preparations. The pale tender green leaves taste like cabbage with texture to match.

Be sure to pan-roast the cauliflower until the edges are deeply browned and crisp but tender within — something magical happens when the cauliflower’s edges are caramelized. Don’t forget to include the small bits that fall away as you prepare and slice the cauliflower heads. These turn crunchy as breadcrumbs and you’ll want to snitch them right from the pan; they’re finger-singeing delicious.

Serves 4 to 6.

Be sure to season this aggressively with a balance of sweet, tangy and salty flavors. Dried craisins, white balsamic or rice wine vinegar, a little honey and a topping of crunchy toasted nuts do the trick. The photo shows gold, aka “cheddar” cauliflower and its cousin, Romanesco, with its shocking neon green color, but the more familiar white cauliflower works equally well. This is delicious served warm or at room temperature. From Beth Dooley.

Directions

In a large heavy skillet, warm the olive oil over medium heat until it begins to ripple. Add the onions and cook, stirring until softened and just beginning to turn golden, about 5 minutes. Add the cauliflower, season generously with the salt and pepper, and cook until the edges begin to darken and caramelize, about 3 to 5 minutes, stirring so that it doesn’t burn. Add the honey, craisins and vinegar. Turn the heat down to low, cover and cook until the vegetables are tender, about 5 to 7 minutes.

Remove from the heat and taste, adding more vinegar or honey, salt or pepper as desired. Toss in the toasted nuts before serving.

Tip: To toast nuts, scatter the nuts on a baking dish or sheet pan and toast in a preheated 350-degree oven until they begin to color and smell nutty, about 7 to 10 minutes. Remove and allow to cool.

Beth Dooley is the author of “The Perennial Kitchen.” Find her at bethdooleyskitchen.com.