Browned Butter and Lemon Pasta with Chicken

Serves 4 to 6.

We cook butter until the milk solids caramelize to add nutty fragrance and flavor to this pasta dish. The richness of the browned butter is balanced with a generous measure of aromatic lemon zest and tart, tangy lemon juice. Either boneless chicken breasts or thighs work, and for allium savoriness, scallions, garlic or shallot all do well, so use whatever you prefer. From "Milk Street: Simple," by Christopher Kimball (Voracious, 2023).

• 1 lb. spaghetti, capellini, rigatoni or penne

• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

• 2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

• 1 1/2 lb. boneless, skinless chicken thighs or breasts, trimmed and cut into 3/4- to 1-in. chunks

• 4 tbsp. salted butter, cut into 4 pieces

• 1 bunch scallions, thinly sliced, whites and greens separated or 2 medium garlic cloves, thinly sliced or 1 medium shallot, halved and thinly sliced

• 1 tbsp. grated lemon zest, plus 3 tbsp. lemon juice

• 1/2 c. lightly packed fresh flat-leaf parsley

• Red pepper flakes, for optional garnish

• Pecorino Romano cheese, for optional garnish

Directions

In a large pot, bring 4 quarts of water to a boil. Add the pasta and 1 tablespoon salt, then cook, stirring occasionally, until just shy of al dente. Reserve 1 cup of the pasta cooking water, then drain and return to the pot; set aside.

In a 12-inch skillet over medium-high, heat the oil until shimmering. Add the chicken, 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper; cook, stirring occasionally, until the chicken is golden brown all over, 7 to 9 minutes. Reduce to medium and add the butter and scallion whites. Cook, stirring only once or twice, until the butter smells nutty and the chicken is well browned, about 4 minutes. Add the lemon zest and reserved pasta water, scraping up any browned bits.

Scrape the chicken mixture onto the pasta in the pot. Cook over medium heat, stirring and tossing, until the pasta is al dente, 2 to 3 minutes. Off heat, stir in the lemon juice and parsley. Taste and season with salt. Serve sprinkled with pepper and red pepper flakes and finely grated pecorino Romano cheese, if desired.