GOUGÈRES

Makes about 36 small puffs.

Note: This basic pâte à choux dough is enriched with Gruyère cheese, but many other flavor variations are possible. We've listed some below. The recipe is adapted from "The Art & Soul of Baking" from Sur La Table.

• 8 tbsp. (1 stick) unsalted butter

• 1 c. water

• 1/4 tsp. salt

• 1 c. flour

• 4 eggs, beaten

• 1 c. finely grated Gruyère cheese, divided

• 2 tsp. Dijon mustard or 1 tsp. dry mustard

• 1/2 tsp. freshly ground pepper

Directions

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Line baking sheets with parchment paper.

Combine the butter, water and salt in a medium saucepan over low heat, stirring until the butter has melted. Bring mixture to a boil, then remove pan from the heat. Add the flour all at once and beat vigorously with a wooden spoon until the dough comes together in a mass. Return the pan to the stove and, over medium heat, continue to beat the dough for another minute until a thin film appears on the bottom of the pan.

Scrape the dough into the bowl of a stand mixer and beat on medium speed for 1 minute to cool it a bit. Before adding the beaten eggs, reserve about 1 tablespoon for the glaze. Add the eggs in four increments, letting each addition be absorbed completely into the dough before adding the next. The mixture may look sloppy, but will magically come together in a very thick batter. (If you feel in need of a workout, you can beat in the eggs by hand.)

Add 3/4 cup of the cheese, reserving the rest for garnish. Beat in the cheese, mustard and pepper until well-blended.

Drop by tablespoonfuls onto parchment about 1 inch apart, or use a pastry bag to pipe 1-inch mounds onto the baking sheet. Using your fingertip or pastry brush, lightly coat the top of each puff with some of the reserved egg.

Bake for 20 minutes, then reduce heat to 350 and bake for 10 to 15 minutes longer until they are golden brown. Immediately top each gougère with a few strands of the reserved cheese. Return the pans to the oven to "set" the cheese; it should take less than a minute. Serve warm.

TO MAKE AHEAD

Gougères can be baked, then frozen in plastic freezer bags for up to a month. When you're ready to reheat, place them frozen on the baking sheets at 325 degrees for 5 minutes.

VARIATIONS

Replace the Gruyère and mustard with:

• 1/2 cup blue cheese and 1/3 cup finely chopped walnuts

• 1/2 cup crumbled fresh goat cheese and 2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives or dill (sprinkle tops with some grated Parmesan);

• 1 cup Cheddar cheese and 1 tablespoon finely chopped rosemary;

• 1/2 cup crumbled fresh goat cheese, the zest of 1 lemon and some chopped parsley.

Nutrition information per each:

Calories57Fat4 gSodium41 mg

Carbohydrates3 gSaturated fat2 gCalcium35 mg

Protein2 gCholesterol31 mgDietary fiber0 g

Diabetic exchanges per serving: 1 fat.