Owner Tracy Singleton recalls that Key lime pie has been a menu staple for forever. "Since we opened, I think, so that's almost 24 years," she said. Citrus is kind of an oddity for a kitchen that focuses on local, seasonal ingredients. "As far as I know, we haven't been able to grow Key limes here in Minnesota," she said with a laugh. "But it's always Key lime pie season. And the whipped cream, that's local." And delicious, as is the pie, and it should be, what with two dozen years of pie-making practice. There's a strawberry version, too ("the berries are local, from our freezer stash from last summer, and the eggs and flour are local, too," said Singleton), and the restaurant's team of bakers are also turning out coconut cream, apple and German chocolate cream pies. Slices $6 to $7.
"Baking is patience," said Audley Rolle, who has been turning out lovingly rendered baked goods at the cafe for the past two years. "It's just working with good ingredients and then giving them time." That's certainly the philosophy behind his superb sweet-potato pie, which starts by rubbing the starchy roots with olive oil and roasting them, "until they're perfect," he said. Once out of the oven, they're the backbone of a creamy, not-too-sweet treat, one of many reasons (waffles, smoked brisket and biscuits with turkey gravy are a few others) to make a habit of this casual neighborhood destination. Slice $3.95, whole pie (48 hours' notice preferred) $20.
Of the dozen or so treats that fill the counter at this cozy south Minneapolis shop and cafe, one pie stands out above all others: streusel apple. Owner Dave Hulett incorporates four different apples, and relies upon the fruit's inherent sweetness — unlocked through a two-hour baking process — rather than heaps of sugar. "There's a half-cup of sugar in this entire pie," he said. "I let the apples do all the work. The longer you bake them, the sweeter they get." The secret ingredient behind his flaky pie crust? Feta cheese. For his popular version of French silk ("I can't keep it on the shelf; it fights for first place with apple," he said), Hulett relies upon a premium chocolate bar and works toasted pecans into the crust. Other standards include banana cream and Key lime, and he also offers mince meat (raisins, dates and cherries, marinated in brandy) on a year-round rotation. Most slices $4.95, most whole pies $25.95 and $32.95.