Leeks are the workhorses in a French kitchen. Milder than onions, they are less likely to burn than garlic, and they give structure and balance to many iconic soups, stews and braised meats.
On their own, slowly sautéed or roasted, they can be sublime. The key is to match the right leek to the job. A giant leek (up to 4 inches wide and 2 feet long) belongs in the stockpot. Smaller, fresh-looking leeks are just right in a gratin, slow sauté or braise.
To start, trim off the scraggly root at the end, leaving a tiny portion of the bottom intact. Peel away the tough outer layer and horizontally cut off the dark green top from the pale green and white portion. Some cooks save those dark greens for stock, but they can be bitter. In my kitchen, they're off to the compost.
If you're chopping the leeks for a soup or stew, slice them thinly crosswise and then rinse them well in a colander under cold running water. For larger, longer pieces, just trim them to size before slicing in half vertically and washing out any grit or dirt that lodges between the thin layers. Once you're ready to cook, drain well and pat dry with a clean cloth or damp paper towel.
In this simple dish, the leeks are first seared in butter or oil, then braised in wine and/or stock in the oven until tender, silky and golden. Sparked with lemon and finished with crunchy, cheesy topping, the dish is a confluence of textures and flavors. Simple and comforting, it's a light yet satisfying vegetarian entree when served with plenty of rough, country bread to sop up the juices, and it makes a hearty side to roast chicken or pan-fried fish, too.
Braised Leeks
Serves 4 to 6.
Note: From Beth Dooley.
• 6 leeks, not too thick if possible
