Have a flight at MSP? Exhibit shows history of Minnesota food (and drink)

Norman Borlaug is standing there right next to the moving walkway on Concourse C at Minneapolis-St. Paul International Airport.

Borlaug and two baskets of Honeycrisp apples, that is.

Of course, it's not really Borlaug, but a small bronze statue of the Nobel laureate — and University of Minnesota graduate — who has been called "the father of the Green Revolution" for his work with wheat varieties that would go on to feed the world.

Needless to say, those aren't really Honeycrisp apples, either, but replicas that reflect the fruit developed at the University of Minnesota.

Both are part of "The Art of Food" exhibit that showcases the history of Minnesota food production.

But you have to pay close attention to find the display. The exhibit spans the long wall that makes up the Thomson Reuters Art Gallery, near Gate 12 of Concourse C, at Terminal 1. Stay on the moving walkway and you'll pass right by it.

But take the slow route — step by step — and you'll be in for a treat of delightful historical photos, old advertisements and the products themselves. And don't stop there. Turn the corner of the exhibit and listen carefully as you scan the wall, where you'll find vintage TV commercials broadcast.

Robyne Robinson, the arts and culture director of the Airport Foundation, curated the exhibit, which is a project of the foundation and the Metropolitan Airports Commission.

"So few people know about all the contributions Minnesota made to food production. Now is the time to really brand our identity to all those visitors passing through Minnesota about who we are," said Robinson, who notes that Minnesotans need these stories as well.

"When people look down at their dinner plate, we want them to know that Minnesota plays a vital role in many of the world's social, economic and political issues today," she said.

Paulucci, Pearson's and more

Robinson developed a timeline approach to her deep dive into Minnesota history. "I was always trying to remember the original people who were here and their contributions, as well as the generations that follow," she said.

She starts the exhibit with wild rice, which fed American Indians.

"The next logical step was wheat, then beer, and the corporations that sprang up," she said.

The remainder of the history lesson plays out in the local restaurants that have sustained Minnesotans over the years, including a photo of the Columbia Restaurant and Hans Lunch on Hennepin Avenue, what was once a 24-hour restaurant row, Robinson said.

You'll find mention of Jeno Paulucci of Duluth and his Chun King line of Chinese-American food. Pearson's Candy sweetens up the exhibit with Bit-O-Honey and the Salted Nut Roll.

Hormel's Spam has a spot of honor, as does the Pillsbury Doughboy. The St. Paul Milk Co. and Bridgeman's offer a taste of history, as does General Mills with Cheerios and Wheaties. Nordicware gets some Bundt-shaped love, and Old Dutch offers the crunch.

And then there's beer. Lots of beer, Schell's,Hamm's, Grain Belt and Summit among the brands.

"This was a community collaboration," Robinson said. "Some companies had really good archival material, and others did not."

Collectors Steve Ketcham and Barry Travis offered additional memorabilia for the displays.

As for those advertising jingles, they were a must-have for Robinson. "I wanted to make sure that the exhibit was well-rounded and not just static. People remember the jingle, whether it's for beer commercials or pizza rolls," she said. "I love to watch people transfixed. They can tell you where they were and how old they were when they first saw these ads."

This project was a passion for Robinson, who would have added a food truck if she could have squeezed one in.

"We have giants in the food community, people who laid the foundation for some of our top restaurants. We're not just hot dish anymore.

"This is a vibrant food community. The chefs all bring what they've learned back home. It makes it a more exciting and diverse place when it comes to food.

"That's what I was trying to do, educate on so many levels about the complexity of our food scene."

Her goal is to use the airport as a gateway, through art culture, to have the seminal Minnesota experience. "When people come through on business — and that's 40 percent of our fliers — when something catches their eye, like this exhibit, they'll come back and try this food. That's the measure of success for this art program — and the exhibit."

Lee Svitak Dean is the Star Tribune's Taste editor. Reach her at lee.dean@startribune.com, follow her at @StribTaste or on Facebook at Star Tribune Taste.