Eggplants are beautiful inside and out – and especially in dip

Eggplant — in numerous sizes and shapes — makes a glorious display on the kitchen counter.

Consider those sleek magenta Japanese varieties, the blushing Italian Rosa Bianca, the purple-and-white striped Graffiti, marble-sized Thai and perfectly oval Indian eggplants, the size of a duck's egg. They're in our farmers markets right now and at their peak. Be sure to choose glossy, brightly colored eggplants that look firm and plump, and that are heavy for their size.

Eggplants are nightshade vegetables, like tomatoes and potatoes, and dislike the fridge. Keep them at room temperature, out of direct sunlight, and enjoy them as soon as possible.

These beauties are not known for their flavor, rather it's their unique texture, once well-cooked. Eggplants are also one of the few vegetables that are indigestible eaten raw. When preparing eggplant, it's best to peel and discard the skin, as it can be tough and bitter. For casseroles, soups, stews and grilling, this needs to be done before cooking. But peeling a whole eggplant after it is fully roasted is simple and quick. Ignore the advice in older cookbooks to salt and drain an eggplant before cooking. That was meant to tamp down bitterness of eggplants past their prime. Our local eggplants, now in season, are so fresh that there's no need for this.

While there are many ways to use eggplants — Parmesan, ratatouille, papoutsakia — those recipes rely on tomatoes and cheese. Our super-fresh eggplants are amazing when simply roasted to the point of collapse. That's when their lush, creamy nature truly shines as they turn unctuous, smoky and slightly sweet and ready to anoint with good olive oil and season with cumin, a spark of pepper and a flurry of chopped cilantro and mint. All you need is a basket of crisped chips.

Makes about 2 cups.

Note: The variations on this hugely popular Middle Eastern spread are numerous, depending on the regions. In Lebanon, tahini is essential; in Israel, it's often left out. In this version, just a little tahini gives the mash its smooth texture and slightly nutty flavor. Either way, it's essential that the eggplant be fully cooked until it has collapsed. Serve it with plenty of crisped pita chips or toasted bread, red peppers and an optional White Bean Salad. From Beth Dooley.

• 1/2 tsp. salt

• 1/4 c. tahini

• 1/4 c. fresh lemon juice

• 4 cloves garlic, smashed

• Generous pinch red pepper flakes

• 3 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, plus more to taste

• 1 tbsp. chopped fresh cilantro

• 1 tbsp. chopped fresh mint

• Pita crisps, for serving

• Red peppers, for serving

Directions

Prepare a charcoal fire or preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Pierce the eggplants with the point of a paring knife. Place on a lower grill or in the oven on a baking sheet and roast, turning occasionally, until eggplants are completely soft and have collapsed, about 20 to 25 minutes on the grill, or 35 to 45 minutes in the oven, depending on the size and shape of the eggplant. Set aside to cool.

Slice eggplants in half lengthwise and lay skin-side-down on a cutting board. Using a small knife, scrape the flesh away from the skin into a colander set over the sink and leave the eggplants to drain, lightly pressing with a spatula to remove excess liquid.

Turn the drained eggplant into a bowl and add the salt, tahini, lemon juice, garlic, red pepper flakes and cumin. Beat with a whisk. (For a smoother texture, place the ingredients into a food processor fitted with a steel blade and purée to reach the desired texture.)

Transfer to a serving bowl and garnish with a swirl of olive oil, cilantro and mint. Serve with pita crisps or toasts, and keep leftovers refrigerated in a covered container for up to three days.

From Beth Dooley.

• 2 c. cooked or drained white beans

• 3 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

• 1 tbsp. fresh lemon juice, to taste

• Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

• Red pepper slices for garnish, optional

• 2 tbsp. chopped red onion for garnish, optional

Directions

In a medium bowl, toss together the beans, olive oil and lemon juice and season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve with optional garnishes.