Cauliflower chowder recipe with cheese and bacon proves it's always soup weather

When I was a kid, one of my favorite meals was chowder. Of course, back then (way, way back), as far as I knew, there were only two types of chowder — New England clam chowder and Manhattan clam chowder, which I referred to as "that other one that I don't like." Forgive me, New Yorkers. I was young.

Of course, things have changed in the world of chowder and today we see all kinds of variations on restaurant menus. So, when I thought about making a cauliflower and cheddar cheese soup, chowder seemed like the perfect choice.

What makes a soup a chowder? When you ask the internet, you get a lot of different answers. Some say it's a creamy, thick soup, usually containing potatoes. Some claim it has to have seafood. Still others insist that tomatoes make for a perfectly acceptable chowder (my inner child strongly disagrees), as long it also contains potatoes and clams.

For the purposes of this column, we will go with the definition of a creamy, thick soup, usually containing potatoes. Only, in this case, we are also adding cauliflower and a copious amount of shredded cheese to the pot.

Cheese soups can be hit and miss. Sometimes they're grainy, sometimes they are bland. Sometimes they are both. To avoid these two problems, I start with a chowder basic — roux. Roux, in this case, is flour cooked in fat. It thickens the soup, making it difficult for the cheese to end up clumpy.

What might be surprising about this recipe is the type of cheese used. While the majority is a sharp cheddar, I also include American cheese — an idea I got from a recipe by chef J. Kenji López-Alt. He claims the inclusion of American cheese (the kind you get at the deli counter, not the prepackaged slices) brings a smooth creaminess that block cheddar just doesn't have, and I agree.

Also, while we're talking about cheese, shred your own. The shredded cheeses in bags include ingredients that prevent it from sticking together. I don't know what those ingredients are, but I've never found them to be tasty. Stick to high-quality block cheeses.

Serves 6.

Note: Food doesn't get much more comforting than this creamy, cheesy bowl of goodness. You will need one (4-ounce) piece of American cheese from the deli counter; do not use presliced or packaged shredded cheese here. From Meredith Deeds.

• 2 tbsp. unsalted butter

• 4 slices thick-cut bacon, chopped

• 1 medium onion, chopped

• 1/4 c. all-purpose flour

• 4 c. low-sodium chicken broth

• 1 large russet potato, peeled and cut into 1/2 cubes (about 2 c.)

• 1 small head cauliflower, core removed and florets coarsely chopped (about 3 c.)

• 2 c. shredded sharp cheddar cheese

• 2 teaspoons cornstarch

• 2 c. half and half

• Salt and freshly ground black pepper

• Bacon croutons, optional (see recipe)

Directions

Meanwhile, toss shredded cheeses and cornstarch in large bowl until well combined.

Add half and half to the soup and continue to cook until hot, about 3 minutes. Stir in cheese mixture, one handful at a time, until smooth. Season with salt and pepper. Serve, garnished with Bacon Croutons. (Soup can be refrigerated in an airtight container for three days.)

Makes about 2 cups.

While the bacon croutons aren't absolutely necessary, they do add a delightful crunch and, of course, more bacon to this rainy-day chowder. From Meredith Deeds.

• 1 tbsp. butter

• 4 oz. country-style bread, cut or torn into 1/2-inch pieces (about 3 c.)

• Freshly ground black pepper

Directions

Heat butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add bacon and cook, stirring, until bacon is brown and crispy, about 4 or 5 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer bacon to a medium bowl. Add bread pieces to the skillet and cook, stirring, over medium heat until browned, about 4 or 5 minutes. Add black pepper to taste. Transfer to bowl with bacon. Stir to combine.