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Ask the Splendid Table: Bumper cucumber crop? Try icebox pickles

Q I remember my grandmother making something she called "icebox pickles." Sweet and thinly sliced is what I recall. Just thinking about them brings back a flock of childhood memories of her farm and garden. Do you have any idea how to make them? My little cucumbers are coming in like gangbusters.

May 23, 2008 at 4:06PM

Q I remember my grandmother making something she called "icebox pickles." Sweet and thinly sliced is what I recall. Just thinking about them brings back a flock of childhood memories of her farm and garden. Do you have any idea how to make them? My little cucumbers are coming in like gangbusters.

SENTIMENTAL in Indiana

A I am nuts for sweet pickles, especially what you are describing. My friend and fellow cooking teacher, Lois Lee, showed me how to make her mother's delicious icebox pickles. Over the years in our kitchen, our own predilections have morphed the recipe slightly, but its spirit is still intact. While not your grandmother's recipe, it should give you a head start toward duplicating it.

To devein or not to devein ...

Q I love shrimp, but I hate the picky process of deveining them. Peeling is slow enough. Is it really necessary to devein them, too?

SHORT on patience

A This is a case of picking what you are picky about. Deveining is tedious, and it is not strictly necessary to remove the vein for health reasons, but here is the whole story.

The so-called "vein" isn't really a vein, at least not in the human sense. It is the shrimp's digestive tract, also called the sand vein. The amounts of sand and other materials are minor enough, particularly in smaller shrimp, to not cause problems for humans. However, in larger shrimp, leaving in the sand veins can create a gritty texture -- not necessarily pleasant when you know what's causing it. Decide what works for you. For me, it's devein big shrimp and let the small fry remain intact.

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The next time you are faced with deveining jumbo shrimp, know that if you cut deeper than usual you can end up with a shallow pocket that begs to be filled. Toss into a food processor some fresh mint, garlic and chile with a little olive oil, purée it into a paste and smear that into the pockets. Chill the shrimp 30 minutes, then cook them on the grill or in a sauté pan. Hot or cold, on their own or wrapped up in lettuce leaves and dipped in salsa, these are made for a hot night.

Just another chicken

Q What is a capon? Our chicken lady at the farmers market added them to her list of products. Should we try one, and how do you cook it?

A SEMI-ADVENTUROUS ROOKIE

A A capon is a rooster that will never marry. While still a chick, it is neutered. This makes the capon completely uninterested in strutting around the barnyard, developing tough muscles. Capons have a penchant for quietly hanging out, getting more tender with each passing week. They can reach 7 to 10 pounds, and are good stand-ins for small turkeys and big roasting chickens. Slow-roast a capon on the grill or in a 325-degree oven. Any seasoning you like on chicken will be good with capon. One other thing, for when the weather cools down: Capons make superb broth. We freeze ours for the holidays and then serve tortellini pasta simmered in capon broth. Heaven!

Lynne Rossetto Kasper hosts "The Splendid Table," Minnesota Public Radio's weekly show, www.splendidtable.org. Send questions to table@mpr.org.

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about the writer

Lynne Rossetto Kasper

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