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Enjoy a 'blue'-plate special

January 10, 2008 at 2:02AM

Say goodbye to the blues by saying hello to Gorgonzola, an intense Italian cheese made from cow's milk.

Its green-blue veins of mold develop during the aging process and impart an assertive, earthy flavor. The most common variety, "piccante" (also called "naturale"), is firm and sharp, while "dolce," which is younger, is soft and less assertive.

To offset its pungency, combine Gorgonzola with sweet accents of dried or fresh fruit, or crumble it over pasta, pizza and salad for an instant flavor boost. To store it, keep Gorgonzola (and all other blue cheeses) in the coldest part of the refrigerator, well wrapped in aluminum foil or waxed paper.

SANDRA ROSE GLUCK, Everyday Food

Everyday Food magazine is published by Martha Stewart Living. For more recipes and additional tips, visit www.marthastewart.com/everydayfood.

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