The Itasca grape, released two years ago by the University of Minnesota, is seriously promising. But it's too new for wine production, which usually unfolds in the third year of vine growth.
But there's another auspicious young white grape in Tundraland: Frontenac blanc. It was not bred, but created itself in cold-climate vineyards in 2005. Just as pinot blanc came about as a mutation of pinot noir, Frontenac blanc "cropped up" (sorry!) as a mutation of Frontenac, a red grape released by the university in 1996.
And boy, is it tasty. At this month's Spring Wine Fest tasting, Frontenac blancs from Saint Croix, Sovereign, Crow River, Wild Mountain and Indian Island (yum) were my favorite set of wines, uniformly crisp and clean with fresh flavors ranging from pear and citrus to tropical fruits and honey. Unlike the other whites that have thrived here, these wines finished dry, but still rich.
Also noteworthy at the tasting were several Marquettes, the U's red-grape release. But a dozen years after it started being planted, Marquette still lacks a firm identity because it is getting so many widely varying oak treatments, from low or no oak to super toasty and/or vanilla-y.
While I prefer minimal oak — the heavier treatment to me often makes Marquette taste like any ol' oaky red — I know many consumers like the new-barrel (or chips) treatment. As well they should; it's their palates, after all, not mine.
What consumers should do when they visit Minnesota wineries — which all wine enthusiasts should, presuming that spring and summer actually arrive — is ask the person pouring or selling the wine about the oak treatment. At the very least, they'll know after they taste it what they think of that style.
More news about Minnesotans, expats actually, who migrated to the West Coast:
• Grace and Ken Evenstad, owners of the justly renowned Oregon winery Domaine Serene, have pledged $6 million to Linfield College to go toward wine education. Linfield, with campuses in McMinnville, Ore., and Portland, is the only U.S. college to offer an interdisciplinary liberal arts bachelor's degree in wine studies.