Nabygelegen Wellington Chenin Blanc 2016

They’ve been making wine in South Africa since the 1650s, and chenin blanc long has been the primary white grape. So they ostensibly should have mastered it by now, and the Nabygelegen Wellington Chenin Blanc 2016 ($18) provides strong evidence that they have. (The winery itself dates back “only” a couple of centuries.) It’s got that classic chenin combination of lush, rich fruit (citrus, pear) and racy minerality on the midpalate and finish. That makes it both delicious and refreshing — and a great option for the dinner table. For those who still eat veal, most any preparation is a swell pairing; for others, roasted or fried fish or fowl and root veggies are equally fitting.

Available at France 44, Sentyrz, Tessa’s Office (Rochester) and Stinson.

Bill Ward