Meet Roxanne, Cleo and Lulu. Roxanne's fat little body "bounces like a buxom Victorian lady"; she is bossy and matronly. Cleo is shy and sweet and loves to cuddle. But that Lulu is well, peckish, and sometimes downright mean. You can find these chicks in the back yard of Janice Cole, where they have inspired her cookbook and memoir "Chicken and Egg: A Memoir of Suburban Homesteading With 125 Recipes" (Chronicle Books, $24.95).

If tasting is believing, Cole was converted by a farmers market egg, a fresh and vibrant revelation. Cole, a magazine editor and former restaurant chef, enamored with flavor and devoted to local food, determined that she would have her own source of such fresh eggs some day.

That was 10 years ago, and though she knew her efforts to raise chickens would yield eggy delights, she never expected to fall in love. The quirky project quickly became an enthralling avocation whose routine tasks are a source of tremendous pleasures in this busy woman's day. Stories of the goofy chicks that become endearing, full-blown hens are woven through the elegant seasonal dishes, along with advice for raising your own. Cole's narrative shines with reverence for these smart birds, and she dispels many a disparaging myth.

Not one of Cole's chickens is a dumb cluck. "They are sensitive, social creatures," she said. In her book, she notes, "Chickens will readily cuddle on your lap, beg to be petted, jump on your shoulder and follow you around. They respond to your voice and get to know various members of the family. Chickens, like other pets, will cheer you up or offer a shoulder to cry on."

They are keenly attuned to their environment, and they are hard-working birds. "We knew first hand that a chicken never stops its constant scratching, pecking and working in order to produce their gifts of eggs."

Your own back yard

The book is a fine source for anyone interested in raising chickens, no matter how small the city yard. Cole provides information on setup, care and maintenance while describing a chicken's virtues beyond egg production. They love table scraps (especially lettuce, yogurt and Parmesan cheese), and their waste makes fabulous garden compost. But those of us with no interest in hosting hens will rise to Cole's sunny, elegant recipes.

Organized by season, the book follows the chicken's egg-laying cycle with more egg recipes in spring and summer and more chicken recipes through fall and winter (when the chickens molt and then take a break from laying). Cole includes a guide to buying fresh, good tasting local chickens and eggs, a glossary that explains labeling (organic, pasture-raised, etc.), and various preparation tips and hints.

Colorful photos of the heritage breeds' natural green, brown and blue eggs inspire me to relinquish fake Easter egg dye and boil these up for the family egg hunt and to pick up an extra carton for brunch.

Beth Dooley is a Minneapolis writer and cooking teacher.