TRADITIONAL POTATO LATKES

Makes about 15 pancakes, 4 to 5 servings.

Note: These crisp lacy pancakes are easy to prepare with the aid of a food processor for grating the vegetables. The usual flavoring is grated onion, but some cooks add shredded carrots, zucchini or apple to the potato mixture as well. Potato latkes can be prepared ahead and refrigerated or frozen on a cookie sheet; when frozen, they can be transferred to a bag. They can be reheated (after being slightly thawed if they were frozen) on a cookie sheet in a 450-degree oven for a few minutes.

• 4 large potatoes (about 11/4 lb.), peeled

• 1 medium onion (about 1/2 lb.)

• 1 tbsp. chopped parsley, optional

• 1 egg

• 1 tsp. salt

• 1/4 tsp. white pepper

• 2 tbsp. flour

• 1/2 tsp. baking powder

• About 1/2 c. vegetable oil (for frying)

• Applesauce, sour cream or sugar (for serving)

Directions

Grate potatoes and onions, using grating disc of a food processor or large holes of a grater. Transfer them to a colander. Squeeze mixture to press out as much liquid as possible. Add parsley, egg, salt, pepper, flour and baking powder.

Heat 1/2 cup oil in a deep, heavy 10- to 12-inch skillet. For each pancake, drop about 2 tablespoons of potato mixture into pan. Flatten with back of a spoon so each cake is about 21/2 to 3 inches in diameter.

Fry over medium heat about 4 to 5 minutes on each side, or until golden brown and crisp. Turn carefully with 2 pancake turners so oil doesn't splatter. Drain on paper towels. Stir potato mixture before frying each new batch. If all the oil is absorbed, add a little more to pan. Serve hot, accompanied by applesauce, sour cream or sugar.

Nutrition information per serving of 3 latkes:

Calories317Fat23 gSodium539 mg

Carbohydrates25 gSaturated fat4 gCalcium46 mg

Protein4 gCholesterol42 mgDietary fiber3 g

Diabetic exchanges per serving: 11/2 bread/starch, 41/2 fat.

CAULIFLOWER LATKES

Makes 6 servings.

Note: These are good as an appetizer topped with sour cream, yogurt or salsa, or as an accompaniment for roast chicken.

• 1 large cauliflower (about 2 lb.), divided in large florets

• Salt and freshly ground pepper

• 6 to 7 tbsp. vegetable oil, divided

• 1 onion, finely chopped

• 6 tbsp. unseasoned bread crumbs

• 2 eggs

Directions

Cook cauliflower in a large pan of boiling salted water uncovered over high heat for 10 minutes or until very tender. Meanwhile, heat 2 tablespoons oil in a large heavy skillet, add onion and cook over medium-low heat about 10 minutes or until soft and golden brown.

Drain cauliflower thoroughly and mash with a fork or chop in a food processor. There should still be small pieces of cauliflower. Add bread crumbs, eggs, fried onion and salt and pepper to taste, and mix well with a wooden spoon.

Wipe pan used to fry onions, add 4 tablespoons oil and heat it. Take 1 heaping tablespoon cauliflower mixture in your hand and press to make it compact. Flatten it to a cake about 1/2 inch thick and add to pan. Make 4 or 5 more cakes and add them. Fry over medium heat about 3 minutes on each side or until brown. Turn carefully using a wide pancake turner. Drain on paper towels.

Keep warm by placing in a 300-degree oven with door ajar while frying rest. Add more oil to pan if it becomes dry. Serve plain or with sour cream.

POTATO KUGEL WITH ASPARAGUS AND BROCCOLI

Makes 6 servings.

Note: This kugel is based on a recipe from my good friend, Gregory Dinner, who learned it from his grandmother, who was of Polish origin.

• 6 large boiling potatoes (about 2 1/4 lb.), unpeeled

• Salt and freshly ground pepper

•3/4 lb. asparagus, peeled, cut in 1 to 11/2-inch pieces

• 3/4 lb. broccoli, divided in small florets

• 2 tbsp. vegetable oil

• 5 tbsp. schmaltz (rendered chicken fat), butter or margarine, divided

• 3 medium onions, chopped

• 1 egg, beaten

• 1/2 tsp. paprika

Directions

In a large saucepan, cover potatoes with water, add a pinch of salt and bring to a boil. Cover and simmer over low heat 35 to 40 minutes or until very tender. Drain and leave until cool enough to handle.

Boil asparagus in a medium saucepan of boiling salted water to cover 3 minutes or until tender. Remove asparagus with slotted spoon, rinse it with cold water, and drain it. Add broccoli to the boiling water and boil uncovered about 4 minutes or until just tender. Rinse with cold water and drain.

In a large skillet, heat oil and 2 tablespoons schmaltz, add onions and sauté over medium heat until golden brown, about 20 minutes. Remove 1/2 cup sautéed onions for mixing with potatoes. To onions in skillet add asparagus and broccoli, sprinkle with salt and pepper and toss over low heat 2 minutes.

Peel potatoes while still fairly hot. Mash them with a potato masher or food mill, not in a food processor. Add remaining 3 tbsp. schmaltz and stir until melted in. Add beaten egg and reserved 1/2 cup of fried onion. Add salt and pepper to taste; mixture should be seasoned generously.

In a greased 2-quart casserole, layer half of potato mixture (about 21/2 cups), top with all of asparagus mixture, then with remaining potatoes. Smooth top. (Kugel can be covered and refrigerated overnight.)

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Sprinkle casserole with paprika and bake uncovered about 50 minutes or until top is firm and light golden at edges. Let stand about 10 minutes before serving. Use a spoon to serve.

CAULIFLOWER KUGEL WITH MUSHROOMS

Makes 4 to 6 servings.

Note: The flavoring mixture for this kugel, of sautéed onions and mushrooms seasoned with paprika, is a favorite in the Eastern European Jewish kitchen.

• 1 large cauliflower (21/4 lb.)

• Salt and pepper

• 4 tbsp. vegetable oil, divided

• 1 medium onion, chopped

• 1/4 lb. medium or small mushrooms, quartered

• 2 eggs

• 1 tbsp. matzo meal or 2 tbsp. breadcrumbs

• 1/2 tsp. paprika

• 1/3 c. coarsely chopped walnuts, optional

Directions

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Divide cauliflower in medium florets. Cut peel from large stalk and slice stalk. Boil cauliflower in a large saucepan of boiling salted water for 10 minutes or until stalks are very tender. Drain well and cool. Purée in food processor, leaving a few chunks. Transfer to a bowl.

Heat 3 tablespoons oil in medium skillet, add onion and sauté 5 minutes. Add mushrooms and sauté together over medium heat about 5 minutes or until mushrooms and onions are light brown.

Add eggs and matzo meal to cauliflower mixture. Season well with salt and pepper. Lightly stir in mushroom mixture and any oil in pan.

Oil a shallow 8-inch square baking dish. Add cauliflower mixture. Sprinkle 1 tablespoon oil over top. Sprinkle with paprika, then with walnuts. Bake 30 minutes or until set. To serve, cut carefully in squares and run knife around edges. Use spoon to remove portions.