San Diego has the famous San Diego Zoo, Shamu pirouetting at SeaWorld, and the Wild Animal Park, where giraffes and rhinos roam freely. But the city has something other Orlando-style fun zones don't: natural beauty. Add a come-hither climate and distinct neighborhoods to the city's seaside good looks and you've got reason to get packing.

The trendy Gaslamp Quarter, once the stomping ground of gunslinger Wyatt Earp, is now the 16-block sanitized epicenter of the city. Its meticulously restored Victorian buildings house an array of lively restaurants and shops. A rental car can land you at San Diego's surfer beaches and picture-postcard seascapes including the views from atop the emerald cliffs in tony La Jolla. Shift gears in dusty Old Town State Park, the authentic birthplace of California, where Mexican heritage is celebrated with margaritas, hand-patted tortillas and historical re-enactments without too much schmaltz.

Why go now

Mid-February is a good time to witness Pacific gray whales. They cruise along San Diego's 70 miles of coastline on their way from Alaska to the warm water lagoons of Baja California. As many as 200 whales pass by per day in January, the peak month, although stragglers impress whale-watchers well into March.

Whale-watching

Look west from the lofty 422-foot-high perch in Cabrillo National Monument on Point Loma. You'll know whales are cruising past when you see their water spouts shoot skyward. You'll also enjoy a gorgeous view of San Diego, Coronado and a hint of Tijuana in the distance. For a close encounter with whales, take a sailing excursion with Captain Sam of Classic Sailing Adventures (1-800-659-0141). The three-hour expeditions cost about $75 per person.

Paddle with sea life

Rent a kayak and check out the octopus, dolphins, garibaldi fish and long-distance swimmers in La Jolla Cove's all-natural Underwater Park. A two-hour single rental with La Jolla Kayak (1-858-459-1114, www.lajollakayak.com) costs $28, $45 with a guide. Tandem kayaks are also available. Better yet, glide over it all. Torrey Pines Gliderport (1-858-452-9858; www.flytorrey.com) offers 20- to 30-minute tandem paragliding flights for $150. Afterward, hike in neighboring Torrey Pines, the picturesque nature preserve named after gnarly, stubborn trees that refuse to grow just about anywhere else.

Our little secret

You don't have to actually check in to enjoy the top-notch Hotel Del Coronado. Sip a cocktail on the beach-front terrace of this historic hideaway that set the scene for "Some Like It Hot." A stroll through the wood-paneled lobby of this seductive 1880s landmark is a treat, and so are the sunsets.

CHECKING IN

Hipsters head to hot properties in the Gaslamp including The Ivy (1-619-814-1000; www.ivyhotel.com) and Hotel Solamar (1-866-226-7740, ) while lovebirds nest at the luxurious Craftsmen-style Lodge at Torrey Pines (1-858-453-4420; ) and charming La Valencia Hotel (1-800-451-0772, ) in upscale La Jolla. Pragmatic families do well at The Embassy Suites San Diego Bay (www.embassysuites.com) with its ample space and complimentary breakfasts. Request a room on a high floor with a view of Coronado and the shops and restaurants of Seaport Village across the street. You'll be within walking distance of the Gaslamp and the fascinating U.S.S. Midway Museum docked at the Embarcadero.

EATING OUT

Rubio's Baja Grill popularized San Diego's signature dish -- the affordable fish taco, served with cabbage on a corn tortilla for $1.99. You can find a Rubio's around every corner in San Diego, including the original taco stand at Pacific Beach (1-858-272-2801). You could order 15 fish tacos for the price of one spice-crusted black sea bass at the formal Dining Room at Jack's La Jolla (1-858-456-8111), the trendy, multi-tiered restaurant run by celebrity chef Tony DiSalvo of New York's Jean-Georges fame. For a more festive vibe, opt for Jack's Grill or Jack's Ocean Room, which serves up crab spring rolls and sashimi combos under ocean-view cabanas while a piano player entertains.

PREPARE FOR LANDING

San Diego International is just 2 miles from the heart of downtown. The downside: descending near skyscrapers feels unsettling if you're not in the know. The upside: You land in the heart of the So Cal action with no delays.

Ann Schwede is a Madison, Wis., based writer.