That Rachel's is an unapologetically old-school restaurant should come as no surprise. After all, owner John Rimarcik is an unapologetically old-school restaurateur.

The menu is so unironically retro it could constitute an episode of VH1's "I Love the '80s" series. It's familiar, too; much of it seems shorthanded from the Monte Carlo, Rimarcik's landmark North Loop restaurant and bar, with bits and pieces culled from his Annie's Parlour and Convention Grill.

Those on the search for innovation should probably dine elsewhere. But anyone hankering for a well-prepared burger -- there are a dozen different preparations -- a decent steak sandwich, a classic chicken wing preparation or a straightforward Caesar salad will feel right at home.

Finesse is not a word I would ascribe to much of the kitchen's output. Mussels were steamed into oblivion, and the less said about an overwrought surf-and-turf pasta dish, the better. I can't recall the last time I encountered a ham salad sandwich (or a $10 egg salad sandwich), or witnessed a corned beef hash -- a massive, finely chopped pile of tender, pink meat -- finished with, yes, a cling peach half. The sole dessert, a towering chocolate layer cake, with vanilla ice cream, has a redemptive quality.

Along with a well-stocked bar, the real draws include the setting, a coveted piece of real estate that Rimarcik kept dark for several years before finally -- and rather quietly -- debuting Rachel's last summer, in time to take advantage of the building's lovely off-street patio. After all that time I found it a relief to discover that the former Bobino still has it going on in the looks department. Its inherent warmth and charm remain intact, gussied up by a few decor tweaks that include a collection of conversation-starting black-and-white photos; look for an image of the restaurant's namesake, Rimarcik's cute 10-year-old niece, among them.

For my money, the restaurant's top draw is Rimarcik himself, who works the room on a near-nightly basis, effortlessly chatting up his clientele and setting an example for his engaging, observant staff.

"Wow, that guy is old-school," said my friend, with admiration in his voice, after Rimarcik lavished our table with a dose of his polite, well practiced schmooze. Well, duh.