Wine

Spaniards call grenache "garnacha" and often spell it "garnatxa." Let's not call the whole thing off, given the wonderfulness of wines such as the 2010 Joan D'Anguera Montsant Garnatxa ($16). There's surprising acidity at the outset, followed by some big ol' wallops of earthy red fruit and a deft touch of spice. With a firm, focused finish, it's great with sausages, meatloaf and, of course, paella. (The 2011 vintage arriving soon will be labeled "Altaroses.") Available at South Lyndale and Solo Vino.

BILL WARD