One of the sillier notions in the viniferous world is that all winemakers are following the same muse, making "big," fruity wines that will lead to a homogenized market.
Certainly there are widespread trends, but aside from Argentinians putting almost all their eggs in the malbec basket, most of these movements are leading to more choices. Many chardonnay makers are cutting back on the oak, and even more vintners are pulling back a bit on the alcohol levels.
So there is an almost limitless array of winemaking styles out there -- not even counting the locales where doggedly traditional and thoroughly modern approaches are butting up against one another. Even in these dusty-vs.-jammy contretemps, sometimes the twain do meet.
Perhaps the most heated Old World-New World battles are playing out with the red wines of Portugal and the Piedmont region of Italy.
In general, the price tag will tell which Portuguese wines will be more "European," said Chuck Kanski, whose Solo Vino shop in St. Paul might be the area's best source for Iberian wines. "At the lower level is where you'll find most of the old-school style," he said, citing Castelo do Sulco. Toutalga and Altano Douro in the $10-and-under range.
These "dusty, smelly, esoteric yet silky wines," as Kanski dubbed them, often feature either touriga nacional (the primary grape in fortified Ports) or tinta roriz (known as tempranillo in neighboring Spain and elsewhere). They tend to have been made by an older generation of "land owners who still grow a lot of grapes for Port, so they don't need to impress anyone," Kanski said.
Favoring the "international" style are mostly younger vintners, many of whom studied or apprenticed in other countries. These wines tend to be closer to $20. The delicious Carm Douro Quinta do Coa goes for around $22, but the seriously tasty Quinta Do Alqueve Tradicional and Quinta Das Setencostas Alenquer can be found for $15 or less.
Some Portuguese are straddling the line between Old and New World flavors and texture (see Wine of the Week below). But the battle lines are more sharply drawn in Piedmont, where a Barolo might be fiercely tannic (old school, lengthy fermentation) or soft and fruit-forward.
In either event, they're spendy and need to be cellared a good long while. So it's a good thing there are some dandy and affordable entrees to this region. The high-acid, low-tannin barbera grape finds lovely expression in bottlings from Malvira, Pertinace and Rosa Fiore. I'm also a fan of dolcetto, and the Vigin is a nice intro to this bright, fruity grape.
Bottom line: Even when made with the same grapes, wines can be delicious, and commercially successful, in many styles. As John Prine noted, it's a big ol' goofy world out there, and it's going to stay that way on the wine front.
Bill Ward • bill.ward@startribune.com
