Many of us are catholic in our approach to wine. Now that has nothing to do with grabbing an extra sip at communion but rather the definition of being "broad in taste."
But some wine drinkers end up in a box. It might be teeny-tiny, like oeno-weenies who buy only first-growth Bordeaux and cult cabs, or the "pinot grigio or nothing" brigade.
Others stick with one color, whether sipping syrah on the patio on a muggy July evening, or knocking down a vinho verde by the fireplace in mid-January. Bully for them -- and too bad for them. Everyone should drink what they like, of course, and being monochromatic is just fine -- if you're consuming wine before, after or in between meals.
"That's the first thing we ask customers: 'Are you going to have it with food or on its own?' " said Mitch Spencer, wine director for the Haskell's chain, "and then, 'What is the meal?' Then we can help them find the best wine for that meal."
Yes, the best way to become color-blind -- besides drinking from one of those black Riedel glasses -- is with a spot-on food-wine pairing. And you don't have to break the bank (all brands listed here are $20 or less).
White-wine eschewers could try a gewürztraminer (Villa Wolf) with a stir-fried Asian dish or a big fat chardonnay (J. Lohr) with a steak. Red-wine-o-phobes might sip a pinot noir (Mandolin) with salmon or a mourvedre/monastrell (Bodegas Olivares) with paella.
Fortunately, there are several other approaches to becoming more "colorful," all built around the notion of discerning what you like about certain wines and finding that trait on the dark (or light) side. That tends to revolve around texture and mouthfeel, acidity and tannins.
White to red: California chardonnay lovers, who have embraced oak and higher alcohol, should have an easy time finding something to their liking, from gamay noir (Duxoup) to zinfandel (Four Vines Cuvee) to malbec (Finca La Linda).
Those who favor acidic whites can try a pinot noir from Carneros (Saintsbury Garnet) or Oregon (Erath). Another low-tannin, "lighter" arena: Italy's Piedmont, with dolcetto (Pertinace) or barbera (Rosa Fiore).
Red to white: The obvious starting point for those seeking similar texture is chardonnay (Estancia Pinnacles), which until a few decades ago was known as pinot chardonnay. Those wanting less butteriness could try a blend of Rhône white grapes (D'Arenberg Viognier-Marsanne, Cline Marsanne Rousanne).
For mouthfeel with vibrancy and oomph, go for a Soave Classico (Inama) or a dry riesling from Germany (Blue Slate) or Austria (Loimer).
And of course, there's always rosé. ...
Bill Ward • bill.ward@startribune.com
